you
I think every day has been a good
session I think by Monday or Tuesday of
this week I was gained my confidence
catching a lot of rides Tuesday had just
had one of the best sessions of my life
and then Wednesday happened and then I
had even a better session and then
Thursday was better and friday was
better I mean just the conditions were
such that every day was consistent this
morning in the river mouth I called that
one wave and that was really good maybe
my best but every day it's been a best
though I can't think of just one and
that's one of the great things about
surf camp is especially when the
conditions are right you're going to get
better every day in that great session
you had on Tuesday is only going to get
better on a Wednesday and Thursday my
best session was definitely yesterday
catching waves catching my own which was
huge the conditions were about us
pressure because they could be the water
was clear looking down and seeing that
huge fish and having the one jump and
hit my board and go across an eagle ray
went under my board was so great I could
see the spots on him the water so clear
I could see the spots on his back oh my
best way was the one I wrote in I
actually took the face of a way this
time and I never did that before so that
was that was truly amazing to actually
go down the green water I did it I was
there yesterday was just perfect it all
came together does session was yesterday
my last day I stayed in in the morning
instead of going to I'll be honest and
hung out with my wife is your family
time chillin by the pool reading doing a
whole bunch of nothing which is great
you know you got to kind of do that as
well didn't want to leave without
getting my last session in so I went and
grabbed Steve's and all the sudden waves
offshore wind
it was just the waves kicked up probably
rose five or six just like perfect waves
very last one a road paddled into got up
wrote it probably a hundred and twenty
hundred thirty yards all the way the
beach I just jumped off my board and I
was like man I'm handing it like that
that's it but that was my best sensor
I'll never forget a best day at surf
camp I think was fugly around day for it
wasn't just a visually wonderful day it
was the experience the day that I was
able to turn to the left and look down a
kind of a wall of a wave and and get
down the wall of a wave independently
that xhilaration and that excitement and
that shot in the arm was tremendous and
to immediately finish off my ride turn
around and go again more and that was
pretty great and it was a gift that I
had to keep remembering
you
you