First 10 Steps When Training a Service Dog. Episode 1

hey guys Nate shomer here and I have

this amazing German Shepherd puppy named

Harley we're gonna be training her to be

a service dog this is gonna be

approximately a six to nine month

program so one of the first things you

want to keep in mind is having the

proper training equipment the basics

that you want to have is a collar you

can have a flat nylon collar like this

one that she has on or you can also use

a martingale collar those are very good

tools to use for training as well and

then a basic leash I like to use a

simple nylon thin leash it's light easy

to use very effective you don't need one

of those big heavy chains or something

like that just something very light and

very simple and then also some sort of

training vest or maybe one of those

training pouches that you can wear on

your waist to use to hold your training

treats when working with your young pup

so the first thing that I like to do

when I start the training with a puppy

is what is known as marker training or

loading the dog to the marker also known

as engagement training what this is

we're gonna teach her that a certain

sound means she's going to get a reward

there's gonna be two sounds that I'm

gonna be using one is going to be yes

and the other one is going to be free so

when I say yes that means she's correct

and she's gonna get a reward but I have

to bring it to her in place this is

what's known as a continuation marker

then we also have what to no one has a

terminal marker the word I'm gonna be

using is the word free now don't get

confused by the dictionary definition of

the word three when I tell her free it

doesn't mean free go do whatever you

want it means you're correct come get

your reward the technical terminology

for this is known as a conditioned

reinforcer so primary reinforcer is food

toy or affection a conditioned

reinforcer predicts the primary this

comes from the studies that were

conducted by Yvonne Pavlov the Russian

psychologist basically he had a sound

that would go off prior to the food

being delivered to the dogs and after a

certain amount of repetitions when the

dogs heard the click they would begin to

salivate and that's what he called

classical conditioning but if you think

about it all you really did was he

renamed a work

and the word that he renamed was

predictability because he did further

studies if the sound went off wow the

food was being delivered or the sound

went off while the dogs were eating they

never became classically conditioned to

the sound the sound had to precede the

delivery of the reward by a split-second

so you're gonna see all I'm gonna do in

this exercise is I'm going to get her

attention when she looks at me I'm going

to use my marker the yes or the free and

I'm gonna deliver the reward so she can

become conditioned to the sound so let's

go ahead and jump right into it I'm

gonna set her down and i'ma let her know

I had the food right now I don't need

the leash I'm just gonna be using the

food and I'm gonna get her look up yes

then I reward notice there is a slight

pause between yes and the delivery of

the reward same thing with the other

word free then I move back encouraging

her to come and get the treat when she

looks at me again yes I reward I don't

have to wait for her to look at me for a

long free for a long period of time I

want her to look up at me yes boom and

get the reward

this should be fun and it should be

engaging free then I move back again

notice how I'm saying yes before I move

and I'm saying free before I move so

this is how it looks

yes if I'm training a young puppy free

without explaining what I'm doing so I'm

just gonna start training her good girl


nice free one yes good girl free very

nice right there she wasn't looking I

messed up but it's okay

she didn't mess up I did yes good girl

free very nice good job yes excellent

free also notice I'm switching hands

good girl

yes free very nice and I will continue

to do this exercise until she becomes

conditioned to the sound now it's very

simple to find out if the dog is

conditioned to the sound meaning they

know that the sound is going to predict

a reward the way that I test this off is

I get the dog in front of me I say the

marker sound in this case the yes or the

free and I wait to see if there's a

change of behavior if the dog gives me a

blank stare then they're not conditioned

but if the dog looks at me and does one

of four things licking their lips

salivating opening their mouth or moving

their paws that shows me that they know

they're about to get a reward and

they're conditioned to that sound and we

can now use this sound within our

training to help communicate more

clearly what it is that what we want and

what we expect from our dogs and this

would be the same as clicker training so

if you want to use a clicker you could

use a clicker all it is is simply a

sound that you're going to use to

pinpoint a moment in time when your dog

is correct and it's that simple

today I'm gonna introduce you guys to my

second step of dog training but I'm

gonna start with simple behaviors we're

gonna teach the puppy how to war so

we're gonna teach her how to follow the

food in my hand then we're gonna use

that to start showing her the sick


the down command come when called even

our stand command may be heel position

but what we're gonna do is we're gonna

use the food to manipulate her into the

positions we want her to perform once

she performs the behavior we're going to

mark that behavior with our yes or our

free and then we're going to give her a

piece of food encouraging her to repeat

this behavior when I'm doing this step

in the training I'm not saying the name

of the command I'm simply giving her a

physical cue that's going to get her to

perform the behavior once she performs

the behavior I'm going to mark and

reward so it should look something like

this alright so what I want to do is I

want to get her to understand the

concept of glory and that's getting her

to follow the food that's in my hand in

order to get access to the reward so yes

when she pushes into my hand I'm saying

yes and then I'm rewarding her yes and

then I release the food the girl

yes very nice good job sweetie I can

switch hands yes excellent

yes yes and then as they get better at

it you can make them work a little bit

harder in order to get the reward and

again this is what I like to call power

steering because we can daddy the

daughter into any position that we want

simply by using this concept of Lori I

can lure her into the down position I

can lure her up into the sit position I

can get her to come towards me and sit


my legs and walk there and all I'm doing

is I'm giving her this book you by using

Lorene getting her get into the

positions I want her to perform and when

she's in the position I mark and reward

now I'm gonna go over each position in a

little bit more detail but this is the

basic concept of Loreen get them to

understand that pushing into the hand

and moving forward is going to give them

access to the reward build up their

confidence so then when they are trying

to do behaviors that are a little bit

more complicated and ends up being easy

for them because they're willing to work

in order to get access to that reward

all right guys so what I want to go over

in this video is how I'm gonna be

teaching her the sick command using the

luring and we're gonna use both markers

so I want you to see how I use the

continuation marker during this step and

how I use the terminal marker the

terminal marker adds a lot of value when

we're doing this because it teaches our

puppy or a dog the faster they do the

behavior the faster they're going to be

released and they're going to get the

reward when we're working with a dog

speed is based on motivation the more

motivated the dog is the faster they

moved if you think about a dog playing

fetch they always run to get the ball

because they're motivated and they're

excited so we want to make sure the

training is fun and you're gonna see

that the terminal marker is really going

to help speed up the command and it's

going to make the training enjoyable so

let me show you how we're gonna do that

good girl Harvey so I'm going to take

the food and I'm gonna live it up yes

the moment our budgets the ground I'm

gonna give her the food yes

good girl and I'm not worried about her

staying in the position yes very nice

so you see when I say yes I bring it to


let's see how it looks when I use a

terminal worker free very good free

excellent very nice free good girl

so watch her butt hits the ground that's

what I'm saying my marker

good girl again making sure you switch

hands you don't always want to use three

the same hand because in your dog will

focus just on that warning him free and

even though she's hit the reward when

she gets up into the active free city

that is given access to that and we can

even mix it up we can go yes we can do

yes bad handling with


yes yes

yes good girl and that's going to be

step two when I'm teaching my dog we're

teaching her the Superman I'm simply

lifting up my hand her nose goes up her

butt goes down when her butt hits the

ground I say yes then I give her the

food and that's going to be how we're

going to shape the sit command again

using Laurie today I'm going to be

showing you guys how we're going to

teach the down command using Laurie it's

gonna be very similar to how we started

teaching the sit command but one of the

things you want to be aware of is how

you bring your hand to the ground one of

the common mistakes that people make is

they'll bring their hand down to the

ground the dog is trying to get the food

and they move their hand away as the dog

is trying to get the food you wanted to

move it straight down and what else I do

is I create a little cave with my hand

by how I hold the food so I bring it

down to see how I'm creating a cave by

turning my hand the dog's nose has to go

underneath the palm of my hand in order

to get to the food

which makes him lay down just like she's

doing so again we go straight down yes

once she gets into position we mark and

we reward and right now since she's

coming back up into the set I could

reward that as well yes good girl so

let's see how it looks I get her moving

around and I like to bring my hand

straight down just good you

excellent good and I can also say for

this one I prefer to use yes yes because

you could jump right up anyways if he

wants to yes or I can remember getting

back up into the yes the sit position

and go right back into the down yes when

I'm working with a puppy yes I like to

use mealtime yes as an opportunity to

Train the key things you want to keep in

mind is once you get to the position yes

that's what we mark the behavior I'm

watching her elbows touch the ground if

for some reason the dog is back end goes

up I'm gonna wait till that butt goes

down yes mark and reward now as I was

saying before in the previous video some

dogs will go down like this yes but the

butt won't go down right away so what

I'll do is I will reward them for

attempting until that leg goes down then

I'll give them whatever is left in my

hand so I'm showing them I really wanted

to lay all the way down if you haven't

gone with a lower level of perseverance

you don't want them to quit because

they're not getting that

yes and she's figuring this out very

very quickly she's a smart dog yes you

know what you're gonna see though the

way that you handle the food is going to

make a really big difference on how easy

or difficult it is for your dog to

figure out but this is going to be using

our luring tube to get our dog to go

into the down command without using the

verbal command down we're simply doing a

physical cue once she performs a

behavior market alright today we're

gonna be going over three commands that

I'm gonna be showing her they're really

simple so that's why we're gonna put all

three in one video one's gonna be the

climb command it's a place that we want

our dog to go I call it climb some

people call it place some people call it

up really doesn't matter what you call

it but it's just going to be an elevated

position where we want our dog to go and

we want them to maintain that position

but I'm going to teach her spin so it's

a simple command they spin in a circle

some of you may have seen my dog re

perform this it's a fun command that

usually enjoy it and then the last one

is going to be Center where she goes

between my legs and maintains that

position so let me show you how it's

done again we're still in the early

stages so we're marking every behavior

we're rewarding every behavior and we're

not worried about the command just yet

we want her to have fun and make it a

good time all right here we go all right

come here honey how do you could get

also for the climb we're gonna got her

on yes mark and reward and we can also

use this as an opportunity to teach the

off command so we got her off yes we

give her a reward now we're gonna throw

on the spin we bring their head around

making a full rotation now some of you

guys if you have a dog that doesn't have

as much perseverance meaning they give

up quickly you may have to reward them

when they're partially through the

exercise so you might have to go yes and

reward there you might have to go a

little farther yes and reward there

because you build on

and then she goes all the way around yes

and then we reward her again we want to

build on success if you're trying if you

do this and the dog gives up then you

need to give them those wins so they

know that if they continue to persevere

they'll be able to get access to the

reward so again these are all very

simple I'm cupping the food in my hand

I'm guided her to the position that I

want her to be in once she's in that

position we mark and we reward at the

completion of the behavior and then for

the center command this one I want you

to know what I'm doing with my hands I

have food in each hand but she's not

gonna get the food that's in the right

hand I'm simply gonna use that to guide

her around into position I'm gonna

transfer her over to the left hand so

here we go

I show her the food yummy you right here

she's distracted she's got something in

her mouth what you've got your mouth oh

she dropped it piece of grass or

something okay so she's going for this

food come on ATD puppy all right I got

her around boom transfer her over the

food still in this hand and I got her in

the center where I want her giving her

those rewards so now let's see what it

looks like if I were to just be training

and not I'm not gonna be explaining what

I'm doing right now I'm just gonna train

her so you can see what it looks like

each time she doesn't get access to the

reward until after I say the marker

sound so here we go

yes excellent way to go yes good girl

yes good girl maybe make her walk a

little bit very nice that's a good girl

get her to come back we'll do another

little here we go I'm right here I got

the food there we go do another spin yes

good girl good girl

that's very nice yes excellent and it's

something that I can incorporate later

when we start doing the heel position we

can throw in that little spin they're

really cute dogs like it it's a good

release from you know an obedience

routine that might be more strict and

not as engaging if you're training or

you're working with a puppy really young

like she is ten and a half weeks

somewhere around there you want to make

it as fun as possible you want them to

have a good time

and you want to end the session when

they're still having fun you don't want

to end the session when they're getting

bored you want them when the sessions

over you want them excited about it you

want them motivated the next time you

bring them out so when you bring them

out to Train they're ready to rock and

roll they're ready to have a good time

and they're gonna learn much faster

because all right I'll talk to you guys



okay guys today I'm gonna be introducing

the place command and for me the place

command is a bowl you can see in the

back a bowl that I place upside down and

my goal or my intentions are to get her

to place her front paws on the bowl and

what I'm gonna do it after that when she

understands it a little bit more she's

never done it so we'll see how she

responds and I'm gonna guide her and do

the best I can to lure her with the food

to get her on to the position some dogs

this may be a little bit more difficult

some it's easier we'll see how she is

and then once she understands that

concept some of the future goals is to

get her to pivot her back end while

maintaining her paws on the bowl this

helps a dog with that rear-end awareness

so they know that their back end is

something that they can manipulate

without moving the front end and this

will help when were teaching her to flip

into heel position and really again have

that awareness of her own body so let's

go ahead and do that we can also use

this as a target for different exercises

later on so I'm gonna bring it over and

let's see we can get her to put her paws

on the front of the bowl yes good girl

very nice yes so she's an easy one

that's good and I'm gonna keep rewarding

her for keeping her paws on there very

good that's good good girl

very good smart girl aren't you

now I'm gonna have her come off because

I want her to get those paws back on so

we can repeat the exercise yes very nice

so she's a very easy dog to teach this

to I've had some other dogs where they

do everything in their power to avoid

the bull and that could be a little bit

of a struggle but she just places her

paws right on it which is very cool

let's go back this way sweetie

back this way let's get those paws on

there yes good girl yes see if I can get

her to maintain it yes by spacing out

the markers yes very good yes excellent

and if the bowl is too small that's

gonna make it more difficult so I like

to use a bowl like this one this is a

basic metal bowl made by Kong so it has

the rubber on the top and that makes it

easier for the dogs to have a little bit

of traction with their paws the full

metal bowls are a little bit more

difficult for them

I know trainers that will also use horse

bowls big horse bowls to start out again

a bigger target willing to be a little

bit easier in the horse bowls are made

out of rubber as well so it's easier for

the dogs to maintain that position with

their palm so let's bring her around and

get her put her paws back on it since

she's doing so well I'm gonna see if I

can get her to pivot that back in so I'm

gonna get her paws on there good girl

very nice cupping the food in my hand

I'm gonna turn yes good girl so she's

turning her back in already very nice

yes good you see that that is awesome

that's exactly what I want good girl

let's see if we can get that back in a

pivot yes good girl and we're gonna take

her back the other way all right here we

go you ready hardly let's see if we can

go the other way don't get too port come

on here we go here we go come on you can

do it yes good girl

very good

yes excellent so that's exactly what I

want that's a good session for there and

you can see how this is going to advance

later on to where she understands that

when she's in a sit front position I can

say he'll and she'll be able to flip her

back end right in the heel position with

very nice beautiful precision even

though I'm training her to be a service

dog that precision is still really nice

and it will help with the training and

lastly a lot of the stuff that I'm gonna

be teaching her it's for instructional

purposes only I want you guys to know

how to teach it so for example we're

gonna be teaching her scent detection as

well she's not gonna be a diabetic alert

dog but it is something that you would

need to know how to do if you were to

train a diabetic alert dog so we're

gonna be throwing in some really cool

things to help teach you guys a little

bit more how to train your own surface

dogs or how to train a service dog for

somebody that you know alright guys I'll

talk to you later see you in the next

video hey guys nation we're here in

today's video we're gonna be going over

the hand touch it's a very simple

exercise all I want her to do is to

understand that when I tell her to touch

that she's going to touch my hand with

her muzzle the way that I'm gonna start

this is I'm gonna take a piece of food

and I'm gonna put it between my two

middle fingers on my hand that's where

I'm going to hold it I'm gonna give her

the picture let her see it and then let

her gain access to the food once she

understands that concept then I'm going

to add the command the command is going

to be touch I know you're excited so

when we start adding the command when

we're trying to let a dog know that

they're doing the behavior correctly we

have to give them a reward within a

second of them doing that behavior at

least when we're teaching

so we have the primary reinforcers and

we have the condition reinforces the

primary is the food toward the infection

the conditioned reinforcer is going to

be our markers since she is getting

access to the food right away I don't

have to use the marker for this step but

once I remove the boot and I want her to

touch my hand without the food being

there then I will be using the marker so

you're gonna see each step it's pretty

simple alright so let's get started

she's pretty excited to be out here so

we're gonna take a piece of food place

it between the two middle fingers up in

my hand and then let her get access to

it so I'm gonna do it again show her the

picture boom very easy ever come back

the other way and excellent and then

back the other way good girl

very nice very good so like I said it's

a very simple concept so now that she's

taking the food from the hand I'm gonna

start naming it so I'm going to say

touch then I'm going to present and she

gets the food put it in my other hand

touch then I present making sure we say

the verbal before the physical touch you

good girl touch then the cute very nice

excellent so this is what I was talking

about before touch where she's getting

instant access to the reward for doing

the behavior so I don't have to use the

marker during this step hardly touch

good girl very nice and I can add verbal

praise touch so now that she's going

back and forth and she's doing this

pretty easily I can now remove the food

from the hand and then reward her from

the opposite hand after I marked the

behavior so I'm trying to get her to

understand the picture of touching my

hand whether or not there's food there

so let's get started touch yes good and

then I reward her right away with my

other hand touch yes good very nice

excellent touch yes good girl so you see

now she's touching my hand with her

muzzle touch

yes and then I give her the food so now

again there is no there's no food in my

hand touch yes very good excellent touch

yes good girl

touch yes very good so there's going to

be a few applications that we're gonna

use this in future training it's fun for

the dog I like to use it as a release

this is also known as a powerup but it's

something that we can use to help teach

other behaviors such as turning on and

off the light switch so you guys will

see in future videos how we're going to

do that but again very simple concept

start with the physical cue have the

food in your hand get your dog to get

access to it have them understand that

behavior name the behavior and then last

get them to do it without the food in

your hand again very simple technique

but it adds a lot of value later on in

our training all right I hope you guys

enjoyed this video make sure you click

that like button leave a comment okay

guys today I'm gonna be introducing the

stand command it's really simple we're

still gonna be using Lorene I'm gonna

take the food and I'm gonna tuck it

underneath towards her chest hoping that

we'll get her to spring her back end up

when she gets in position I'm gonna mark

and reward again during the step I'm not

worried about naming the command I just

want to be able to present a physical

cue that's gonna get her to perform the

behavior every single time if she

doesn't pop up the back end then I'm

simply gonna help with my hand to show

her that I want her back in a pop-up and

you'll see exactly what I mean it's

pretty simple so I'm gonna get the food

very good so she's sitting right now

oops I dropped the food no big deal and

now I'm gonna take the food

again tucking it towards her chest

hoping to get her back in the pop-up yes

just like that very good very good

yes and I'll reward her for the Citiz

will it's still early in her training


so I'm rewarding every single behavior

yeah well yes well throw it down in

there as well and we'll see if we can

get her to pop back up using the food

the Laureen well there was a noise no

big deal yes good girl it's not gonna be

perfect in the beginning but we're not

worried about perfection just yet yes

good girl come on baby

you can do it yes good very nice so I'm

not having to help her which is really

good but if I was to help her if she was

having a hard time and the back end

wasn't popping up I would just use my

hand and just provide that little extra

bit of assistance to give her more of a

clearer path of what I want her to do

and she's very food motivated which

helps a lot yes good girl

so again you see how I'm marking the

behavior once the back end pops up and

if you see my other two videos for the

sit what we're doing is we're lifting up

to get the dog to sit remember where the

nose goes the butt does the opposite and

for the down we're simply bringing our

hands straight down creating a little

cave but the dog's nose to go underneath

what Jim turn we'll bring the back end

down since they have to stick their nose

underneath the little cave that you're

making with your hand so now since we

have the stand added into the dog's

repertoire we can start using all three

so while I'm training here I could throw

in the sit yes

I could throw in the stand

just throwing it down yes

good girl and that's gonna be something

that I'm gonna add what I'm doing the

training when I'm training a dog I don't

just do one session and do one simple

command over and over again I try to

teach them everything in the very

beginning especially this is her

imprinting stage where what she learns

during this time she will hold for the

rest of her life so I want to make sure

she enjoys a training we're having a lot

of fun it's very engaging so when she's

older and she enjoys the training it's

gonna make it much easier to teach her

new behaviors and more complex behaviors

so again one more time bring it to her


kind of guide or move her around a

little bit till we get that back in the

pop-up yes whoa went back down no big

deal yes once it gets back up we mark

big reward we give her a treat and when

it's really good and she knows that this

is a cue to pop that back end up then

we'll go ahead and we'll name the

command but this is all we're gonna do

for now

all right so I hope you guys liked the

video make sure you leave a comment

below and I'll see you on the next one


all right in this video I want to start

introducing her to the heel position I'm

just gonna guide her over to the heel

position as well as introducing her to

the sit front position I want to get

some precision it doesn't have to be


but I want to get it in the general area

if you're doing competition obedience a

perfect sit friend is going to be

directly in front of you Center the dog

as close to you as possible without

touching you and then heel position

depending on what sport you would be

doing for example a Casey they want the

dog as close to you as possible and they

want the paws aligned with the balls of

your feet and again some sports might

vary a little bit I don't need it to be

perfect with her but we're gonna get it

pretty close and I'm gonna show you

body language that I'm gonna be using

and how I'm going to be luring her to

each position to get this in front and

then the heel position all right so

let's get started sure that I have the

food so for the sit front all I'm doing

is bringing my hand down directly Center

to my body

that's not in word and then reward her

now having her dog circle their head

inward is very important for this

exercise because if you circle their

head outwards then that's going to

become a default movement that they do

and you're not gonna have that really

free rotation of the back end coming

into healed position like that because

we want when they fully understand the

heel position we want them to flip their

body it's called a flip finish into the

heel position so again their head comes

inward I step back giving her some room

and I can even reinforce the position a

little bit more by walking forward and

rewarding her now for the sit front when

she's in heel position I'm stepping

forward now with the left leg guiding

her around my leg and back into the sit

front position there she was a little

bit too crooked that's a little better

all right let's guide her again stepping

back with that left leg circling her

around in a position yes mark and reward

dagger let's walk a little bit forward

yes good girl a little bit more yes very

nice I said that marker a little early

and she's way crooked there but that's

okay if you make one mistake it's not

gonna ruin the dog I've had people

stress out because they reward the dog

when the dog wasn't doing it correctly

and their concern that they're gonna

mess up the training one mistake is not

gonna mess it up so don't stress out too

much have fun with it yes like there

she's a little crooked again

I'm not too concerned stepping back with

that left leg circling her around back

forward into heel position marking and

rewarding and now since we taught her a

lot of those other behaviors we can

incorporate those as well in with this

exercise so we could throw that spin in

there we can throw the sit we can bring

her into the down we can pop her back up

into the stand position bring her to the

sit front over here a little cricket

why don't reward here's another detail

when you are doing the sit front

position I like to keep my hand really

close to my body and then I drop my hand

down to reward him reward placement is

something you want to keep in mind if I

have my dog sit and I'm trying to do a

sit front I reward her this far away

then there's no reason for her to come

nice and close into position so I want

to bring my hand up closer to my body

same thing with the heel position I like

to reward them when their head is upward

so they get used to keeping their head

up looking up at me if I wanted to start

working on a focused heel to where she

walks and she looks at me the whole time

it maintains that high contact that's

gonna be something you'll see in a lot

of competition obedience again not

really necessary for a service dog I

enjoy teaching it though so we're gonna

work on a focus here with her it may not

be perfect but we're gonna have some fun

with it

alright I hope you guys like this video

make sure you leave a comment make sure

you share the video and thanks again


hey guys Nate shomer here in today's

video we're gonna start teaching our

puppies how to walk backwards so it's a

very simple concept what I do is when I

want the dog to come towards me I open

my hand encouraging them to come to me

to get the reward when I want them to

walk backwards I close my hand into a

fist and I walk towards a dog when we're

first starting this we don't expect the

dog to just completely walk backwards

all we want to do is we want to be able

to get one step and then as the dog gets

better we're gonna add more steps to the

backwards walk this helps them with

their rear-end awareness but it's also

gonna help her as far as understanding

how to use her body when we start doing

more complicated service dog tasks so

let's go ahead and jump right in so I'm

gonna grab the food get her attention

I'll go ahead and reward her and so now

all I'm gonna do I'm gonna close my hand

I will walk towards her yes and when I

see her take those steps backwards

yes I'm mark and I reward yes good girl

so I can get her to come back to me and

then let's go ahead and get her to walk

backwards again yes very nice good job


yes yes a common issue that people run

into when they're trying to do this

exercise is the dog may try to sit down

yes what she is not doing it's making it

much easier but if your dog does sit

down just be patient with it and try to

move your hand manipulate your hand to

get the dog to do the behavior remember

this is our power steering we get the

dog to really understand the concept of

following our hand we can use that to

manipulate the position wherever we want

the dog to be it's no different for this

so if I'm trying to get just like the

stand command I'm bringing the food down

I'm trying to get her to pop her back

end up at first if she doesn't do it

right away we just really have to work

it to get the dog to understand

and then we mark and reward so again we

close our hands we walk towards our dog

we get those backward steps yes we

reward good girl

get those backward steps yes reward

yes you weren't very nice yes good girl

so once we get the dog doing it every

single time and you get them presenting

the picture or they're doing it exactly

the way you would like them to do it

then you go ahead and you name the

command just like every other command we

make sure that we save the verbal

command before the physical cue so if I

wanted to tell her back up or walk

backwards whatever we want the command

to be I can say back up then I did a

cute so there's she's sitting yes reward

good girl

back up then the cue yes reward

excellent very nice back up yes

try one more

back up we had sirens in the background

but so now she's really walking a nice

distance backwards and we'll continue to

say the name of the command before the

physical queue up into the point where

our dog beats us to the behavior so you

say back up boom my dog's walking

backwards now without the help of the

physical cue

this is definitely an exercise I

recommend teaching your dogs even if

your dog is not a service dog it's still

a good exercise it's really fun and

you'll definitely be able to impress

your friends when you tell your dog to

back up and your dog walks backwards

alright I hope you guys enjoy this video

I hope the background noise isn't too

distracting and I'll see you all in the

next one okay today's video we're gonna

be introducing the verbal command so up

until this point we've taught our dog

the markers known as loading the markers

I call it engagement training where we

get them conditioned to the sound that

predicts the reward the conditioned

reinforcer then we start showing our dog

what behaviors we want them to perform

by using the luring technique so

teaching her how to sit by lifting up

the down by luring her to the ground the

place command all these different

exercises that we want our dogs to

perform once we know we can get them to

do the behavior every single time on the

physical cue then we go to my step

number three where we name the command

so when we name the command the name of

the command must precede the physical

cue it has to come before it must be

predictable to the dog this is an

analogy I tell everybody and should help

you remember this imagine you have a

blindfold on and I have a stick and I

take that stick and I say I'm gonna

swing the stick at your head but before

I do I'm going to say duck so I say duck

then I swing the stick giving you just

enough time to duck before I hit you

with the stick but what if I did this

duck you get in every single time and

you would never be able to learn so it's

the same when we're teaching on dog

basic behaviors or any command really we

want to say the verbal

then we want to get me safe for the

camera so we want to say the verbal

command and then we're gonna show our

dog at the physical cue so it becomes a

pattern that they can learn they can

predict and then we do that until our

dog beats us into the behavior so for

example I say down and then I lure my

dog into the down position I'm mark and

reward I say down look the dog went to

the down position before I lured them

into that position not we know we have

it on the verbal command another thing

you want to keep in mind is when we

start naming the command we want to use

the terminal marker so when I teach

today I don't say stay if I place a dog

into a commanded position so for example

I tell the dog to sit and that dog sits

down and I use my continuation marker so

for her it's yes then she will be in a

sit stay if you're not ready to enforce

the stay use the terminal marker this

way we can pinpoint the completion of

the behavior we can reward the dog and

we can release them at the same time so

during this exercise I'm going to be

using my terminal marker which is free

letting her know that she's done with

the exercise and we're gonna move on to

the next one again this is because we're

not ready to enforce the stay command so

here we go we're gonna be doing all the

different commands that we've worked on

so far remember it goes command motivate

mark reward and each one has to be

separated by a split second on the

timeline they can't be together so we

say down then we cue our dog free and

then we reward

climb then the Q free then the reward

off then the cube three three one spin

then the cube free reward center then

the Q free reward he'll then the Q free

little early on the free there then

reward down then the Q free reward stand

on the cute free reward

sit then the Q free reward

sit Q free reward you see how it's

separated if you had a time line you'd

see the command down then you'd see the

physical Q would be next then the marker

free and then the reward so each one is

separated what most people do the most

common mistake is people paired their

physical with their verbal they pair the

command and motivate they go down right

and then they say free and they reward

at the exact same time we want to make

sure that we separated because if we do

it incorrectly it still almost looks

like we're doing it correct so for

example this is incorrect climb free

off free and that's what most people do

be all right so I'm gonna go back to

doing it correctly down q33 more sit

cute free room or spin Q free reward

sit cute heel - free rewarding climb

cute and remember I'm not worried about

perfect precision since it's a service

dog training not competition of being

all cute free reward center Q free

rewarding down Q free rewarding sit cute

3 reward good girl

spin cute free

come on cue free break and that's how I

do a basic obedience training exercise

with my dog once I get it to the point

where they know the markers they know

the behaviors we want them to perform

off of the physical cue and then we're

ready to name the command and again

command motivate mark reward I can't

stress that enough a has to go in that


all right so that's gonna be what you

guys want to do and again you want to

continue doing this until it gets to the

point where we say the command climb

look the dog went to the climb command

without having to guide them to that

position then we know we have that

behavior on the verbal command that's

very important if you want you to get

your dogs if you wanna get your dogs to

perform the behavior on the verbal

command alone so I hope you guys liked

the video make sure you leave a comment

and I'll see you guys