How to Plan Your Climbing Training: Troubleshooting!

really this is a classic example of

someone that's clearly very motivated

and it's trying to put lots and lots of

training into their week but really the

if you if you stack it all up and you

look at that ordering of it and the

cumulative effect I think it's gonna be

really hard especially later on down the


so when he's starting to reach his

physical potential to keep making

improvements hello everyone we are back

myself and Ollie for ask lattice another

episode and we have a slightly different

setting today we have this beautifully

laid out whiteboard I'm not going to

tell you whose handwriting that is

behind but you will discover quite

quickly who has the best handwriting

yeah yep so based on last times asked

lattice we asked you guys to comment

below and let us know whether they have

any sort of ideas about your training

plans and would like us to plan them out

for you so hopefully handwriting is neat

enough that we're going to show you that

today and we've got we've chosen three

examples and we've already contacted the

people and they've sent over their

training plan with a few ideas about

what they're training for and hopefully

we're going to dissect that so you can

get a little bit of information that

might relate to your training as well so

let's start off with first person who we

had contact us on YouTube then this is

Adrian so hello Adrian I hope you're

watching we have for you you have a

route goal of 70 plus so to write some

basic notes in it and we'll we'll get it

going so we have route goal of 70 plus

Jimmy told that for you yep okay and

Adrian is in a strength training cycle

and this one so he's trying to make

gains in basic strength and at present

he is we're gonna go through the layout

of the week and then we're gonna see if

we can put this down it slightly nice

away so on a Monday he's climbing sport

climbing routes so go sport climbing

Tuesday fingerboarding S&C pull-ups

Wednesday Boulder or sports

Thursday finally a rest day which might

give you a clue of what's gonna happen


finger board max Friday plus sport

climbing Saturday finger board max plus

S&C Sunday a rest day so you can see

there that we have Adrian's

week laid out and he is coming back to

this whole thing of where's he going to

or how's he going to lay out his week to

really prioritize more on strength gains

over anything else because he did say

afterwards in the email that he would

change it up he was gonna do parents

trading so what's the first thing that

really stands out to you ollie on that I

think the first thing you'll see this as

a theme throughout today is what's the

intent of the training that's going on

and whenever someone starts writing

stuff down or comes up with an idea it's

what is this stimulus there and we're

looking for the strength stimulus and

he's trying to get stronger because

maybe he's already fit enough and for me

if you look at the actual strength

stimulus that's coming into this he's

doing so much training that he's gonna

find it really hard to recover between

these sessions and get high-quality moon

in so for instance if we're trying to

get stronger fingers so far we've got 2

max sessions back-to-back which is

always better to spread throughout the

week I'm not sure if this fingerboard

session is also max and but then we're

also following up with quite a lot of

climbing on top of this sport climbing

and once again it kind of depends on the

type of sport climbing is doing if it's

in short stuff and the peak district

that will work strength still but for me

there's so much volume in there that it

does mean that it might not get as many

strength gains as you'd like if he was

to focus purely on that yeah I totally

agree this is that really this is a

classic example of someone that's

clearly very motivated and it's trying

to put lots and lots of training into

that week but really the if you if you

stack it all up and you look at that

ordering of it and the cumulative effect

I think it's gonna be really hard

especially later on down the law

so when he started to reach his physical

potential to keep making improvements

because if you look at this it's one two

three four five six six days in that

block there there's one single rest day

and that's that's normally a kind of

area of concern for us as coaches isn't

it yeah and we do stick with this

concurrent training but mixing all of

those together in that block of six days

with one rest days it's quite intense

and for me it depends on the athlete a

little bit as well so we have sort of

nine a level climbers that might operate

at this or level but they were also very

unlikely going to be doing this many

hours at work or they've got such a busy

schedule in the rest of life as well if

they're going to be doing this much

training at high quality so it really

comes down to the rest of your life as

well trying to fit all this in so for

instance if you were able to climb first

thing in the morning and then do this

session in the evening and then this

session in the evening suddenly you can

make the most of those gaps in between

but if this is someone who works in the

daytime and climbs in the evening or

change an evening every day all of a

sudden this feels quite a bit harder so

for us a good solution would be

switching up a little bit maybe doing

either a split session here or doing it

all in the evening and then having an

extra rest day I think one other thing

that stood out on the email from Adrian

was that the ordering of each session so

am I correct in saying he was doing

sport climbing first because its

movement and then doing max fingerboard

so I think he's actually doing the

correct ordering during the

fingerboarding first because I think it

was on this day here that he would then

go later in the day and do the other

work so that was okay but it was that it

was the ordering of subsequent days so

when I looked at that email and

immediately saw sport climbing which

could be quite exhausting and fatigue in

the first day on a Monday and then

immediately followed by really high

maximal work of fingerboarding and

trying to make these strength gains

immediately the next day that's the last

thing that I'd be doing because I'm

tired from sport climbing and normally

I've got sore skin as well so I can't

actually try really hard in the session

and if you're thinking or if we add in

this extra rest day then you might be


they here it's always okay to drop the

volume just a very small amount so they

getting the high quality rest and you're

adapting from it rather than having

back-to-back sessions so if the

fingerboarding here is just a couple of

reps less it's still worth it to get

this extra rest day and last point on

this one here is we'll be doing a thing

here for a little shuffle on this side

or do you think we're okay on that last

section there before you can move on to

the next one I mean ideally I would like

a finger ball and Mac session maybe in

here so they spread three days

throughout the week so bring the FB from

over here and let's take yeah cuz be

fatigued in that on there so we can

leave that to the Saturday just general

strength and conditioning yeah yeah yeah

so hopefully that helps and Adrienne if

you're seeing this here amazing

motivation it's clear that you want to

put so much hard work in but really try

and focus down a little bit and spread

things out to allow that recovery

because we want to train but we also

want to recover okay so now I'll move on

to the second person we're going to go

through today and that he's been Ben's a

boulder specialist

he's currently operating it's over 6 b +

6 c standard and wants to climb his

first front 7 a soon so someone who's

focused purely on bouldering and Ben's

got a really interesting case that we

see a lot way he gets to the climbing

gym maybe once or twice a week at the

most has a finger board and a ring set

up at home though so he's trying to fit

in stuff at home throughout the rest of

the week so his goal is for fun 7 a yak

on the left cool and so what we've got

so far for Ben is on Monday Tuesday

Thursday Friday Saturday he's doing

mobility on all of those days so Crocky

Monday Tuesday's that's plenty of

ability great job yeah yeah so as a

starting point

take the ok with that if you've got the

time to add that in and a lot of people

do it in the morning whether it's yoga

say Wednesday and some there and if

people had that aliens yoga or they just

do regular stretching that's fantastic

and it's a great place to start off and

however when it comes to limited time

and this is what we're going to talk

about in a moment this is something to

keep in mind so then what we're gonna do

is on Tuesday and on Fridays doing

finger board max so finger board being a

max hanging session is probably what

he's talking about so that's looking for

strength gains trying to increase his

finger strength and we're assuming that

he's probably doing this at home in the

morning so on Tuesdays and Fridays as

well he's doing a fun climb so

unstructured climbing going to the

bouldering wall hanging out with friends

doing problems and just mixing you up no

particular structure in mind during

those sessions okay and then the last

thing is Thursday and Sunday

he's got calisthenics so he's got two

rest days in again which are Thursday

and Saturday completely up great to see

two rest days in a week and generally he

spread all these sessions throughout the

week but I think what me and Tom thought

when we're looking through this is

specificity and that's something that's

really important when we're looking at

anyone's training plan yeah I think if

you you look at this plan across the

week is that is it Ben yeah yeah so Ben

you've clearly got an amount of time to

put into your training and you're doing

loads of mobility work and also this

calisthenics work which is great so

you've got the time put aside to it and

I suspect that you're the one the

reasons why you're doing this is it kind

of fits with the facilities that you

have but in our experience is that if

you've got the time to be able to do

this kind of stuff it's try and push the

training all the time that you do things

much more into something which has a

specific reward into climbing so change

up those calisthenic exercises which

obviously are good for strengthen

conditioning for the upper body into

sports specific exercises that you might

do on a fingerboard or a bar and a very

much more in the plains of movement

we would use in climbing and just use

that time in a bit more of a focused way

because you are really quite limited on

the amount of time that you can go to

the climbing gym and you're some using a

lot that time in an unstructured fun way

of climbing so really hone down and use

that for your your exercise that you're

going on so if we keep in mind that

Ben's obviously keeping this fun

climbing time just to be exploring

movement and having enjoying his

climbing so if we imagine we're keeping

that as unstructured because that's

something we could quite easily

manipulate if we wanted to what can we

add on to the other sessions which is

going to train his forearms to cope with

that anaerobic stress of being a boulder

and it increases work capacity so a big

thing for Boulder is is it's great being

able to have enough strength to be able

to complete movements but if you're away

on a trip or guarde out the amount of

attempts you have on each problem can

also dictate whether you actually

complete it or not so we do need like a

good work capacity so for us if we're

not going to play around with the

climbing sessions these fingerboard

sessions we can start adding on extra

little bits to it to increase that work

capacity so so far we've got max hangs

which is usually anywhere between 5 and

15 seconds depending on what protocol

you use and usually you're not going to

need too many reps of that because it's

so intense what we often do is we add on

energy systems work on top of that so

there can be anaerobic repeaters or even

slightly aerobic repeaters afterwards so

7 on 3 are 4 10 on 5 off and new in

certain amounts of sets and reps of that

increase the work capacity of the forum

the other thing that's nice to add on if

you're going to do fingerboard sessions

at home these are really convenient for

the time that you have is to do some

kind of climbing specific pull-up

exercises on a fingerboard as well so a

lot of the modern finger boards have

different levels of holes on them so you

have maybe four tiers of holds and you

can do things like offset hangs offset

pull-ups on those bigger balls as well

and you can even do placing your feet on

the floor I started on the floor throw

on a chair or

or a object that keeps your body

underneath the board so you're putting

60 70 80 percent of weight on the

fingerboard and you can move around on

the board and you can recreate climbing

movements and it's another really good

way of building on the work capacity at

the same time as working the muscle

groups in your upper body in a specific

manner and that's a really good one for

any of you students out there that don't

have access to all all the time we used

to see all the time we'd have a finger

board hung off and everyone's trying to

do laps on it which looks ridiculous but

if you have a group of you ends up being

quite funny so making up a little

session out of this go for the max

timers first then do any of the pulling

exercises and then I would say do it

like a quarter of half the session of

that energy systems work whether it's

anaerobic repeaters so the volume is not

too high just on the fingerboard because

you need to build up over time if you do

all of those sessions back-to-back fully

it might be a little bit too much yeah

and I think overall is that the layout

and spread in terms of training and

recovery and this week looks good to us

it's certainly blocking it in there and

you're allowing recovery to occur from

any hard climbing session so that on the

whole is as good as new

so good luck with the 7a and hopefully

that's helped you out a little bit to

get you closer to getting it


okay third question we have now is for a

light plan user actually so this will be

really interesting because we would have

written that plan but the chap that

we've written the plan for check is

going to have four days of training

across his week and we're gonna see how

we're gonna place his light plan

contents into the best laid out plan

within that week so what are we looking

at in terms of stimulus for improved

question main stimulus will main goals

that we're looking for here is we have

finger strength improvements and then we

also have work capacity which is both

aerobic capacity and anaerobic capacity

okay so we've got two different stimulus

to try and work towards and four days

per week so keeping in mind those first

two in terms of what's the stimulus we

want to increase and how the specificity

of those goals are going to be

accomplished yep

so we've got the sessions all down here

yep so these are the sessions that we

have written into the plan and we're

going to lay out in the way that we

would do it and we also have our Tuesday

Thursday Friday and Sunday is that

climbing days and forecheck we have both

Friday and the Sunday as being the big

climbing days so what you might see is

we've got these numbers down here so one

is obviously a full session and 1.5 is

going to be one and a half sessions but

that can be split up into different

smaller sessions so you could do a

shorter bolder session a half session

plus a whole session separately so in

anything way it's got no point five it's

exactly the same training same intensity

but the session is reduced by half the

amount of sets so instead of doing six

sets at v10 I'm I do three sets of v10

okay so if you start with high highest

intensity short is volume work first of

all so let's go for fingerboard I think

we're gonna lay this into the earliest

part of the Tuesday and then we're also

going to follow that up with a 0.5 and

cap session so

finger board session followed by a

relatively short non exhaustive

anaerobic capacity session then we put

another high-intensity bit of work

bouldering a full unit bouldering on the

Thursday and then finally last bit of

really hard bouldering is 0.5 which is

going to go onto the Sunday on that big

session so you can see already what

we're trying to do is spread out that

high-intensity work across the week so

the recoveries adequate next we're going

to add in a 0.5 arrow cap on the Sunday

after the bordering session and because

we also have a long session of Friday

we're going to do the full arrow cap

session on the Friday on here because we

have more time and plenty of it in a

client session so on the the Sunday

obviously we've put in arrow cap after

bouldering and some people get a little

bit worried that you're doing a strength

stimulus followed by something else if

you're gonna have a half session

afterwards that's absolutely fine just

make sure you have enough rest of 10 to

20 minutes and then try and keep the

arrow cap session so either the more

interval style area cap or the really

really easy longest stuff avoid that mix

stimulus area cap where it's half the

climbing time is hard half the climb

times easy to recover because that's the

stimulus which my upset of strength

gains but it's still not too bad to add

that in yeah a common question owl isn't

it ok so we also have some hard strength

and conditioning work as well to be

completed within the week so we've

followed up after the Friday full error

cap with a one full pull-up session on

the bar and also a shoulder antagonist

work so you can see that we're building

together and grouping sort of more hard

fairly extensive conditioning sessions

in with climbing sessions on the days

we've got plenty of spare time and so on

the Friday we've now got pull-ups in the

shoulder antagonist work after the

okay if this area caps giving me quite

an intense session then have those basic

conditioning movements afterwards even

though they're more focused on strength

but because once again what we're

looking at work passing work capacity of

the forearm in particular this arrow cap

session is going to take priority if we

were looking at that stimulus and saying

I do want to become a better Boulder or

improve my strength then the pull-ups is

probably going to go above the arrow cap

just because you can still complete that

arrow cap in good form even they've done

pause before hand so the ordering just

change things around depending once

again on the specificity of your goals

so we're left with now

one and a half TRX and our tomb

abilities so we went for a 0.5 TRX so a

shorter TRX session of the Monday sorry

the Tuesday rather so that Tuesday

session there wasn't a really hard

exhaustive session so we're quite happy

to put that short session of that in

earlier on the week and then a full

session on the big day on the Sunday at

the end and of course it's nicely

followed up by mobility session as well

because plenty of time down the wall and

we can really increase that work general

work capacity overall and we can still

fit in all the training in the training

plan which I think leaves us one one

yeah one mobility session which we were

can only guess what is gonna put it it's


yes so you can see it's like nice empty

gap there still spreads out the week and

we just got adequate recovery we've also

got plenty of energy intersession so one

of the things we took into account here

is we spread all that intense sessions

throughout the week but if you get to

the Sunday and you're tired or you're

going to go outside or do something

different or you just feeling that you

can't complete all the sessions these

smaller half sessions are actually going

to be a bit easier to drop in the worst

case scenario and TRX mobility can

hopefully be doing at home or added on

to like the back of another session

later on well you don't want to do is

put too much waiting at the back of the

week because then if you do happen

something comes up in life where you're

not able to do it then you end up start

trying to push you back a week and then

add it all into a further week which

starts me in the overload and you could

end up with injuries or not getting

anything doesn't feel demos

related yeah it's almost like a bit of a

downside to having quite a lot of times

there are time dedicated in the week

where you you can train and so you could

almost end up thinking I've got the the

liberty of plenty of time I'll leave it

till later and late in the week and you

have these really nice short

high-quality sessions and earlier in the

week and then you're trying to run it

all in the weekend and potentially also

climb outside so tricky isn't it yeah

and with all of these sort of plans that

we've made out once again you've got

taken so what you actually enjoy doing

together I know I personally find it

quite nice to do fingerboarding in there

noon and aerobic capacity work I

struggle to do a really hard an aerobic

capacity session around getting really

powered out followed by a narrow cap

session even though that's absolutely

fine stood together personally based on

skin and based on motivation that's

something I never put together so try

out an experiment on what you actually

enjoy being down the wall for some

people also don't like doing loads of

conditioning together so just keep it in

mind so you have it have three training

plans that we've gone through and broken

down and giving you what would be mine

Ali's opinion on how to structure that

week we hope you find that useful

there's always loads of discussion about

this in a facebook community page all

you know I get in there and comment

every now and again and we'll help you

guys out and as ever

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