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My Top Ten Tips For Starting A Retinoid | Dr Sam Bunting

hi guys welcome back to Sam here helping

you get closer to great skin so today I

wanted to show you how I apply my

retinoid and give you some sneaky

insider tips to getting the most out of

this essential skincare ingredient let's

get started

so it's night time which is when I

always use a retinoid and I'm cleansed

now what I do next will depend for you

guys on where you're at with your

retinoids so let's consider the scenario

one you've never used one before this is

your first time you're feeling a little

bit nervous maybe I know there's a lot

of you who experience anxiety when they

think about rats in the woods and either

that's more Facebook group needs a

little survey so the way I suggest you

going gently is to first think about

moisturizing before you do your retinoid

it's called buffering and I think that

there is absolutely no harm in starting

in a way that does almost nothing

because I think it's through regular

usage you build confidence and if you

remember this is not a sprint it's a

marathon it's about the long term

there's no rush to do everything

immediately so I would start off with

moisturizing after cleansing and I'm

going to use dr. Sam solace moisturizer

because it contains niacin and like the

reason for including us in my in my

moisturizer was to help those starting

retinoids it is niacinamide

is a great ingredient for helping you

reduce the irritancy of retinoids

because it increases ceramide content in

the skin making your barrier that a

little bit

or robust so I'm gonna moisturize all

over I'm going to use two pumps 13 dot

technique as you guys know and what's

really important here is that I take

care of areas that might be extra prone

to irritancy now today I'm not going to

do my neck and decolletage I can see

where that advanced level retinoid use

and my patients will know that so what

it's key when you're starting is that

you get confident so let's just focus on

the thicker more tolerant areas of the

face in the first instance so I've done

like 13 dots I'm gonna rub it in and

what's really key is that eye barrier

off areas that are prone to trouble so

that means the thin skin around the eyes

it means collecting in crevices now if

any of you have little lives or wrinkles

nasal labial marionette waves you want

to be very careful because you don't

want product to accumulate and even your

tiniest amount extra well the retina is

sitting in those creases overnight it

can make you more prone to redness than

irritancy so as I said I'm not paying

attention to my neck today just take my

faith now if I was extra cautious and

maybe naturally prone to dry skin around

my eyes anyway I would do an extra bit

of moisturizer around my eyes it's what

I call moisturizer goggles swish oh he

sounds slightly absurd but that means

you're more likely to remember it and I

would literally have moisturizers

sitting on the surface because the thing

is no matter how precisely you apply

your retinoid

products tend to creep and that means

that when you're lying in your pillow

and maybe you're smashing your face you

know shouldn't lie on your side but if

you do it can just encourage product to

track a little bit into that thinner

inner part of the eye and the other

thing is sometimes you just like so

don't be swipe the eye area when you're

applying the rest knowing you get

retinoid on your eye

it makes things dry and peely or I was

just a bit dry or underneath which makes

your wrinkles look worse and then you

start to worry that actually the

retinoid is doing more harm than good so

moisturizer goggles if you're really

worried about your eye area moisturizers

are all over and if you have you know a

little bit of extra moisturizer I put it

in the creases of the nose another area

where point can tend to settle and

irritate check out those little areas

where fine lines and wrinkles might be

and then let it all soak in give

yourself good 5 to 10 minutes before you

come back to do your retinoids step and

then the final step is anyone who's used

a right and way before it knows that

lips are prone to dryness if you get

retinoids on them so I always put lip

balm on as a barrier you're essentially

protecting the orifices which isn't a

very nice term but it's very important

particularly at the creases and some

people are naturally just prone to

having some fine lines there and again

it's not a nice place to have retinoids

collect because it will cause blindness

and irritation

okay so that's me prepped and ready to

apply my retinoid now I know you to get

too caught up in my choice of retinoid

today I'm doing a separate video on what

retinoid is right for you and going

through all the different ones but I'm

going to use this one today but come

because it comes in a nice pump format

so what I think is key when you're

starting a retinoid is to do less often

and smaller amounts building up to

bigger amounts more often as tolerance

develops and that's a process that

happens over the course of weeks to

months so for the average patient I'm

seeing for the first time I tend to

start them on every other day and I use

a quantity what I call a half finger tip

amount which is essentially like that so

half the distance from the crease to the

end of the finger okay it's

approximately okay

sighs - Monte you want to use that sort

of terminology and it's around a quarter

of a gram of product over time as they

get more tolerant and are able to use

the product daily I'll build up to a

fingertip amount which is around half a

gram

so pumps are easy I mean there are other

products of course on the market like

the ordinary try not to Freud that comes

in a serum format I find droppers are a

little harder to quantify the amount

that you're using and I do prefer the

cream because then again it's easier to

distribute in a precise fashion serums

are more liquid and I can lead to more

you know potential spread onto areas you

don't wanna treat so I'm ending my 13.2

technique again and I won't show you

anything to do with eyes for next today

because I think those are areas that as

I say I call high high risk in a way but

advanced level right your use of course

there are areas that we want to treat

because we want a thicker skin we want

skin that's more resistant to wrinkling

but as I said get used to doing it on

the thicker parts on cheeks forehead

nose entry first I'm then gonna really

firmly rub that it you want to saturate

the upper layer of your skin and you

want to really work product in you don't

it's sitting on the surface it's just

gonna irritate a bit sitting on the

surface what we want is ultimately to

get the product into the stratum corneum

and then to drip down into the dermis

where it can work its magic on collagen

production hyaluronic acid production

and so forth I'm gonna really work in

those areas nice and even because

consistency with these things is

absolutely key now anyone who's

concerned about fine lines in the top

lip will of course want to apply their

retinoid there but I use a little bit

less so I use the majority on these

thicker parts and then I'm working in

carefully two areas like that at the end

you do want to work it into your nose

because of course two priests

appearance of your pores so a nice frame

access but again I will consciously wipe

away the crease area so it's not sitting

there and collecting so final thoughts

that's fully absorbed now and it's touch

dry there's no product there for me to

move around again if I was super nervous

and extra cautious and naturally prone

to dry skin or I had a bad experience

with active products before I would now

put another layer of moisturizer on it's

what I call the moisturizer duvet so

you've got a layer underneath to buffer

the letter over the top to minimize

dryness it's nighttime looking a little

over Juhi isn't gonna hurt you no you're

not wearing eye makeup sliding off or

anything and if it gets you extra space

to tolerate the rats know it more

quickly then it's a great thing you have

plenty of time over the next few weeks

the next few months to build up the way

you use your rest or to make it stronger

but now is not the time for that and

what's really important is to understand

that what happens tomorrow isn't really

the time that we worry about I worry

about what might happen in three to five

days because that's when retinoid

dryness tends to appear so don't get

cocky if you wake up day two and think

oh I'm completely fine no stick to the

every other day regime stick to the

generous use of moisturizer before and

even after and give yourself full two

weeks of that protocol before deciding

am I going to be okay can I ask a late

or do I need a bit longer on the same

slow track and it's fine to be that

person okay so that's pretty much it

that's how I approach it that's how I

would start with time you can build up

the frequency and the quantity so you

can go from every other night every

night have a fingertip to a finger tip

amount and then when you're ready and

that's usually after three months six

months that sort of timeframe you can

think about increasing

the strengths - if you like what you see

and you want to get even more results

really try doing this video for you guys

I hope you liked it if you did hit

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I'll see you again soon bye for now