start

How to start protection training with a German Shepherd puppy

sighs your canine and today we are going

to be telling you and how we start our

German Shepherd puppies in protection so

what I have with me here obviously

German Shepherd puppy on our table back

tide you can see there's she's wearing a

flat collar and you know she has a

little back tie and hole obviously

you're not gonna have this but you can

back tie the puppy to anything from a

post to your banister even and my

suggestion is in the beginning baptize a

puppy a couple of times and just feed

the puppy some kid will get the puppy

comfortable being back tied and leave

the puppy there for a few minutes and

then once the puppy is comfortable then

you can start doing group development so

at this stage we're not going to put too

much pressure on the puppy we're just

going to be doing group development

which is a prayed drive based exercise

and I need to get the puppy interested

in binding this rag so what I'm going to

do is I'm going to move the red back and

forth get the puppy excited to bite it

alright and once I see sufficient

arousal towards the rag I'm gonna make

some misses on the rag and then I'm

gonna give the puppy the grip I'm going

to be doing a number of things while I

do this it's not such a simple beat

there's a lot of things that are

actually going to be going on so I'm

gonna try to talk you guys through it as

I do it so in the beginning I'm just

going to move the rag on the floor get

her excited for it

so a couple things there you notice that

I don't start super close to the puppy

this this puppy doesn't really know me

number one so me starting really close

to her I can cause a little bit of

insecurity right number two I don't if

the puppy is very socially oriented I

don't want her to become too interested

in me and not the Reg so I step back and

I have the rag do the vast majority of

the movement so that the dog becomes

fixated on the rag right and the Ustadh

beginning there was a little bit of

fixation not too much so I moved in a

bunch and then I even threw it up on the

table and whipped it away until I saw

her really trying to get it and then I

gave her the grip now she had a little

bit of a half grip which is common

especially if you're using the leather

and that's why I like to use the leather

because it's a little bit slippery in

the dog's mouth and they really have to

clamp down on it versus if you use a

piece of burlap they can just be holding

on with their front canines so look at

that you see like she's kind of got just

that half a grip I know there you go

perfect so you saw there I went in I set

the burlap up a little bit and she was

able to and she was able to fill her

mouth so here again you can see it's not

a full grip right it's a it's a half

grip so I'm gonna give her the chance

good girl to fill her mouth properly and

this is this is about where I want it

you know she wants to push it a little

bit farther back it's not bad for a

first session this is her first session

doing my work she's a little bit hectic

too well notice that she kind of growls

a little bit when I get close it could

be a little bit of insecurity and a

little bit of conflict there so I'm

gonna work that a little bit you'll

notice I always keep the rag alive I'm

not hauling on it and she's a little

baby I'm just making little tension on

it

keeping it a little bit alive in her

mouth okay when I get

I said it oh good girl and sometimes

I'll just cradle her really good and I

just put my hand up on her chin and I'm

gonna try to calm her down a little bit

really good good I'm gonna take the rag

again I'm gonna work her a bit back and

forth not nothing crazy just easy

movement set do it and she punched in a

little bit and that's what I want when I

flex the rag I want the dog to punch

into the rag and fill her mouth you see

a lot of people doing this stuff online

and they're just doing crazy stuff you

know it's like the dog really isn't

learning anything now she has good prey

Drive she doesn't have extreme pretty

look look look look look it's slipping

right so she has delicate puppy teeth

I'm not gonna yank it out of her mouth

but at the same time I'm just gonna make

that there it is just a little bit of

tension and it popped right out Shh now

I'm gonna get her going again you have

to be careful here how do you do this

one you specifically do might depend on

what your goal is like if your goal is

to do IDP bite work for sport or your

goal is to do you know sue work for a

soup sport or if your goal is to do

personal protection

it might change a little bit of your

approach for us if this dog we're gonna

start her as if she's a personal

protection dog right so I want the

arousal towards the rack and then I want

that punch in when her mount one when

the grip isn't full I want her to punch

it okay so again watch that tension you

have to be very careful don't rip any

teeth out of your dog's head and if your

dog is teething

do this so again I come in set the girl

she fixes her grip I'm gonna try and

calm her down here a little bit good

girl

Frasor make a little bit of tension just

to keep her grip firm on the rag

good I'm gonna take the rag I'm gonna

let it slide through my head step back

and we're gonna do our tugging and a bit

of a distance if I get real close she's

a pretty confident puppy if I get real

close I can do it with her right I can

do it but doesn't mean I should look the

grip sucked a little bit a lot of people

do this crazy stuff right and it's like

this isn't gonna help the dog we want to

promote a full grip so so I'm going to

work a lot of the grips at a distance or

at least a half and the important thing

do is I'll never put it in her range

I'll never put it in her range unless

I'm sure that she's really trying hard

if she's kind of half motivated then I

won't I will just keep that rag moving

and I'll get her really excited for it I

might not even give her a bite right so

don't be afraid to not give your dog a

bite if your dog is not showing

sufficient motivation to go after the

rag right I'm a big believer in working

your dog oh I'm a big believer in

working your dog in whatever Drive

primarily motivates them

so obviously this dog's primary drive is

praying but there are some dogs whose

primary Drive is defense and if you have

a dog who's primary drivers defense they

you need to be working the dog in that

manner but never yourself and if you

don't know what you're doing don't mess

with defense but that's another topic

all together but for a puppy that has

sufficient prey dry this is an excellent

way to start teaching the dog how to

bite properly for those of you that will

say oh I don't want my dog interested in

the rag I love my dog interested in the

man that's because you don't really

understand how the process works you

need to teach your dog how to bike

properly before you actually put your

dog in the place where the dog will be

biting somebody or even somebody wearing

equipment and they say again a lot of

people skipping these critical steps and

they have a dog that does not buy

properly and they're putting that dog on

bike suits and sleeves and you see just

terrible gripping behavior because the

dog was never given the correct

foundation she she's getting a little

tired here so normally I would stop I'm

gonna go for one more though

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she saw a little bit of a different

presentation there right

you saw me actually presented and give

the dog a bite directly from my head as

opposed to throwing it and that's

because I know she could handle it if

she was showing a little more insecurity

with me coming up on it then I wouldn't

have done that so I'm still working this

dog more in the middle distance and in

the far distance I'm not doing too much

work close if I come in close it's just

set and get that punch in a little bit

yeah we should get a great little one

now I'm gonna cradle her so when I come

close bad things don't happen it's

really important a lot of people come

closer and they get crazy with the dog I

want the dog to associate me coming

close with being calm full and hard on

the grip not oh my god we're going to

get into a big fight that can come later

so what I'm going to do is whenever I

come in I'm gonna help the dog a little

bit of not good so that time it came out

of her mouth but I'm gonna set it up set

the rag and whatever I I want the dog

moving her feet and going after it

obviously the dogs on the back type she

can't come to it but I'm gonna move it

so that she has to move her feet to go

after the rat all right so now she's

biting it when I walk in again so

important relax or I'm gonna set oh

she's gonna bite nice I'm gonna move out

okay so this is how I like to start this

puppy out

this is how I will start these puppies

on on the bike work from here I will

move to other things but in the

beginning I'm going to just spend a

couple of sessions getting the dog

comfortable showing the correct

transition of behavior from prey arousal

to you know

shoot of the object - biting the object

that I'm gonna focus on how the dog

bites the object for those of you that

have a problem as you can see like every

single time I've gotten it out of this

dog's mouth it slipped out of her mouth

because it's leather if you're not using

another if you are using burlap right

that is easier for the dog to hold on to

doesn't necessarily mean it's better to

use but it is easier for the dog to hold

on to for that what I do is I like to be

he lifts offs so I'll lift and you saw

there I didn't actually hold it until

she let go because I'm not trying to

make her out when I do a lift off I'm

actually promoting that the dog hold on

you if you're the motivated dog then you

give a lift off a lot of the time you'll

see that the dog actually holds on even

more which is good so you can see now if

you're so tired right she doesn't even

want to punch it she just wants to hold

on so I'm going to keep her out a little

bit at the full distance oh very kind of

a half-ass regrip but that's okay all

right and then we'll do a lift off and

you can see right now the stock now she

okay guys so a couple things with this

puppy and for those of you who are

wondering she is from our breeding our

prey Drive she has a very good friend

right she doesn't have an extreme Frey

Drive there's different levels there's

dogs with lower there's dogs obviously

with mediocre there's dogs with good and

then there's dogs with extremes island

raper is good for a drive not extreme

okay so as you can see she had fairly

good motivation she was fairly committed

to going after the rag and especially

it's a leather rag so it's much more

harder for the dog to grip so she was

biting nice and hard for the vast

majority of the exercise like I said

this dog needs more work in the middle

distance so not super close and then

from the middle distance when she's

showing me the correct behavior I'm

gonna move in to the close distance and

I'm gonna work a little bit more close

work when she's

be comfortable with me very close to her

then we're gonna move on to other things

but in the beginning I'm gonna work this

dog on the back type get her grips nice

firm hard and calm I'm gonna get the dog

re gripping into the rag right I don't

want her just staying like this if she

has a half grip I want her to regrip and

fill her mouth okay chef umm if I'm

doing suit work with the dog I want a

dog who's gonna naturally push it push

it push it and firm and hard the whole

time I'm doing ITP work I want the dog

firming hard and pulley but again this

is a topic for another day this is just

how I get the dog started in the pray

circle I want the dog to activate the

pray I want the dog to chase the pray I

want the top to grab the prey and hold

the pray and I want the dog to possess

the thread and I think that concludes

our first part 1 of this series on how

to train a German Shepherd to do

protection work