start

Start a Garden: EVERYTHING You Need to Know

hey everybody welcome back to another

nature's always right video today I am

at my parents house because as you guys

know recently I shut down my urban farm

and I was going to be moving to

Tennessee to go to try to find land and

buy a home and all that well because of

the situation in the world right now

I've got to wait a couple more weeks

before I'm able to travel there and

start that search so today I want to

make a video all about beginning

gardening skills how to set up a raised

bed seed starting transplant planting

how to find two transplants if you go to

some place like Home Depot so this is

going to be for your beginning gardener

somebody who's just really new to this

and I'm gonna give you tips based upon

this the easiest things to acquire sow

seeds and transplants and we're also

gonna bring my mom in here and she's

gonna help us garden as well so it

should be a really fun episode and I

hope you guys enjoy seeing some of the

back-to-basics skills that I hope will

help a lot of people maybe who are

finding this video and are just getting

started on their gardening journey

alright so I just brought my mom in here

this is my mom everybody just wanted you

to meet her and she's gonna be helping

us today and I want her to talk about

the garden here when did you start this

garden and what did you make these boxes

out of before we even go well I best

recollection that I have is was about 27

28 years ago when we moved in here about

30 years ago we built some decks and

some patio covers and then at that time

we had some leftover wood and so we

decided to go ahead and make some

planting boxes that we could grow

vegetables flowers whatever kind of

suited my fancy at the time I think it's

Douglas fir they've held up actually

quite well for this many years we've got

areas where we have some termite damage

but for the most part they've held

together really well and I've grown a

lot of vegetables over the years in them

yeah so it's pretty cool to see how long

when these boxes can actually last you

sir talking about 27 years and then what

were some of the things that we used to

grow in these

initially we grew tomatoes onions

strawberries we did some artichoke we

did squash that's that's majority and

then eventually the strawberries gave me

a lot of problems your dad fell in love

with pomegranates right and then we went

to putting two pomegranate trees in one

of the beds let it take over and they've

done really well all the rest fears and

then tell them did I like gardening when

I was a little kid no you did not I

thought it was gonna be this will

creative thing get your kids out here

let them help you know grow things see

how things grow maybe they'll like

vegetables more if they didn't didn't

work in fact I was a bit disappointed

you were a little more helpful than your

sister by frankly in the garden she was

more excited and playing sports and

skating and doing other things but I

kind of kept it up until your lives got

really busy as children and got very

involved in what you were doing and

between that and working at that point I

kind of let the garden not do very much

other than grow some Tomatoes possibly

that kind of thing and then we just I

just kind of did minimal minimal things

and then my mom created a really amazing

garden just around the yard all these

landscaping plants and flowers and just

create a really beautiful space here she

did blueberries and citrus and pots and

stuff so yeah if you're a parent out

there and you're you wanted to get your

kids interested in gardening don't give

up hope because I eventually came back

to it and I had all those memories of

doing all this stuff so they can still

find the love for it and hey now we're

gardening again in these beds so all

right let's get to it and the first

thing that we're gonna do to these beds

is just amend them it's been a maybe

about a year or six months or something

like that since they last had some

veggies in here so the first thing we do

is just add some gardening soil and

we're gonna go get some transplants

right now at Home Depot just to show you

the simplest way to go get some plants

of course local nurseries are fantastic

if you want to start your own seeds

we're gonna show you how to start your

own seeds here in a few minutes so let's

go to Home Depot here we go

let me show you guys my favorite potting

soil mix and I think they have it pretty

much throughout the whole country but

you want to look for something that is

of course organic and naturally made no

synthetic chemical nutrients the brand

that I like is called Kellogg this is

their raised bed and potting mix and

this one's really great because let's

look at the ingredients courrier perlite

poultry manure feather meal peat moss

kelp meal worm castings back 100 all

natural fertilizers really good

nutrients and it's just a nice soil and

it's consistency you can start seeds

with this of course at Home Depot or

Lowe's there's a whole lot of other

choices a lot of stuff but like Miracle

Grow and companies like that which I

don't recommend buying Miracle Grow

they're a synthetic nutrient company

they do make organic stuff now about now

but they're really just focused on

making money and I really don't care as

much about you know making good soil so

that's like Kellogg if you have it's the

best and some of the other Kellogg

products that are really good if you

just need some garden soil just to kind

of pep up your beds maybe you've already

got really good drainage then this is

these bags are a little bit cheaper and

also it's the same formula just without

the perlite if you need to top dress any

of your trees things like that the grill

mulch is really great because it's gonna

provide nutrients and then it's got some

larger carbon pieces that will help

retain moisture and prevent weeds so

becomes my mom's beds are pretty fertile

and the soil looks really great we're

just gonna add one bed of the raised bed

mix per 8 by 10 bed and we're gonna add

in some other nutrients as well that

I'll show you when we get back to the

house so now let's go ahead and check

out our transplants and I'll give you

some tips on picking transplants and how

to pick a healthy one that's gonna do

really well in your garden so if you

take a look at these two Tomatoes here

one thing you want to know is the word

indeterminate and determine it the

determinant is a bushing type so it'll

fruit

basically just one time you'll get a lot

of fruit and then it'll be done the

indeterminate will keep giving you fruit

it's a vining type so it'll keep making

flowers that will produce fruit for you

I recommend just always growing and

determinate because you'll have a much

longer season of growing your two major

differences you're going to have your

cherry tomatoes and then your larger

slicing Tomatoes so that's going to be

your decision on what you'd like to grow

the cherry tomatoes though are really

prolific for a much longer time and when

I was running my urban farm I grew only

cherry tomatoes I like cherry tomatoes

because they don't have problems with

rotting or bugs if you lose one small

cherry tomato to a bug it's not a big

deal if you lose a big tomato it's a lot

more painful and they just don't produce

as many but they're larger so now let's

just take a look at the transplants and

what you would want to look for in a

healthy transplant so first I'm gonna

show you guys one that I don't think

looks very healthy this is some sort of

probably fungal issue the leaves are a

little bit pale or yellowed whereas if

you look at a transplant over here you

see how green those leaves are and the

entire plant all the way down even at

the lowest level of leaves they're not

very yellowed which is a good sign

because as the plant grows the lower

leaves will get yellow and die off and

I've got a great video on pruning

tomatoes that you should watch if you

want to learn more about taking care of

indeterminate tomatoes these are all the

suckers here if you see a tomato like

this you see how the leaves are curled

it looks like a worm was on here eating

it so this plant is having issues so I

wouldn't definitely not pick this one

you want to find a tomato that has the

leaves completely flat and unfurled like

this any of these look fantastic

so here we have some zucchinis and now

if a zucchini is the tomatoes peppers

cucumbers anything that produces a fruit

it's gonna need full Sun so keep that in

mind and you know all these are gonna

get very large so when you're planning

out the size of your garden think about

how large these are going to get these

are going to get to about three by three

feet in size you're also going to notice

that some of these have multiple plants

in one pot now when you go to plant

these you could actually break these

apart and get multiple plants out of

them or you can select for the largest

plant the best looking plant so that

would be this one here and you could

just cut these

away and only plant this one and you

only want to plant one squash plant in

one spot otherwise they're gonna compete

for light and you will not get very good

fruit they may even be more susceptible

to pests and disease if you do that so

make sure you're planting only one plant

in the one spot but you will see at the

nursery is that a lot of times this will

happen where they've planted multiple

seeds so you get multiple plants another

great thing to look for at Home Depot is

their discount section these are plants

that they let you know grow a little too

long you can see there's multiple

seedlings in there but as long as the

plant still looks healthy you could

totally plant this just cut it back to

one plant and go for it

[Music]

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okay so we're back from Home Depot with

our Kellogg garden soil and we have two

four foot by 12 foot beds right here and

what we're gonna do is do the same thing

to each bed so we're gonna pour out one

of these before I do that let me show

you some other nutrients we were gonna

do as well so from my urban farm I had a

bunch of leftover things like some

organic fertilizer some leftover peat

buff some left over seeding propagation

mix we're going to dump all that in here

so I've got kelp meal and this is

azomite rock dust for minerals minerals

are super important for your garden just

like humans we don't have all the

vitamins and minerals we need it's hard

for our bodies to produce the ability to

have a strong immune system and this

also feeds the soil life as well so as

my rock dust is fantastic

and I'll put links down the description

to the different organic fertilizers and

minerals things that I like to use in my

garden so we're just going to spread a

little bit of this out maybe two full

cups of azomite over the surface

probably two cups or three cups of the

organic fertilizer and they always have

instructions on the bag to show you how

much that you should use for the amount

of area and then now we're gonna add our

one three cubic foot bag of garden soil

and this soil is already really good so

we're just doing enough to pep it up if

you're starting your soil from scratch

then you could just use all of the

raised bed potting mix from Kellogg or

if you're able to I recommend getting

some locally made compost that's really

high-quality because you're gonna save

money and it'll be even better soil than

what you can buy at a store so now we're

just gonna rake it and get it even

across the whole surface now you guys

know who watch my channel that I'm super

into no-till which means we're not

flipping the soil and mixing the soil

layers together

so we're just gonna mix it together here

at the surface and then when it rains or

we water this in that's gonna help to

mix these nutrients down deeper into the

ground just like when it rains in a

forest we're also gonna water at the end

of this with our plants and we're gonna

even water in some other nutrients that

I have leftover from my farm like fish

emulsion and seaweed I'm just gonna show

you guys some other things that I'm

doing with soil drenching for feeding

but just doing what we did right here

some organic fertilizers some good

composted soil that's all you really

need to grow good plants so now we've

prepared both of our beds with all the

amendments and the compost so now let's

get our transplants ready and we need to

put them in positions that are going to

be good for these plants now summer

fruiting plants like squash tomatoes

peppers eggplant cucumbers anything that

produces a fruit it needs a lot of

sunlight in order to produce things

really well so when looking at your yard

it's really important to know where's

south where's West where's East where's

north figure out those positions and the

winter you're gonna have the Sun

traveling in the southern sky but in the

summer time it's gonna really come

directly overhead so the camera right

now is facing west and the two corners

right here of these boxes get the most

sunlight throughout the year and

especially the summer so that's where we

want to have our squash our Tomatoes our

peppers things like the basil they don't

need as much sunlight and you can even

plant these underneath your tomatoes or

with your Tomatoes and that's called

inter planting and that's a really

fantastic way of getting more crops in a

smaller area and I have an in-depth

video all about that and I'm gonna put

links in the description to some other

videos that I've made that will really

help you to go more in depth on some of

these concepts that I'm just briefly

touching on in this beginner video so

the other thing to think about with your

light is what's around your garden so

you can see that there's that tree there

that's constant a little bit of shade

here so in this back corner because it

gets less light that's gonna be a great

place for green

for herbs even like radishes or some of

the smaller root vegetables will do

really well right there so look all

around your garden we've got these

eucalyptus trees on the west side so in

the late afternoon those blocks Sun as

well so you really just want to look all

around the garden so you see what's

gonna cast shade you could even watch

come out every couple hours into your

garden and see where the shade is before

you even plant to plan out your garden

so the next thing we kind of touched on

it at Home Depot but we need to prepare

these transplants

so these squash because they're so far

spaced apart we're gonna take a knife

and just cut through here to try to

separate the roots out it is gonna

damage the plants a little bit the most

guaranteed way to help the healthiest

plant would be to come in here with some

pruners and just clip out the weaker or

smaller looking one and plant the entire

root ball into the ground but in order

to save money if they're far enough

apart like this that's about two and a

half inches apart you can actually save

these so that's what we're gonna do now

on your Tomatoes tomatoes need to be

prepped by removing the couple bottom

leaves because we're gonna actually bury

this up until about here right below

this first leaf here and when you do

that on a tomato it'll actually produce

roots higher up on the stalk the other

things out of tomato you want to do or

remove any suckers which are places in

the crotch of the plant between the main

stem and the side shoots and those just

draw energy away and we want to really

force this plant to get tall and go on

to the trellis that we're gonna make and

I've got a video all about pruning

Tomatoes as well any dead or dying

leaves on a plant it's better just to

remove them okay so here's the

configuration that we came up with we

want to make sure that there's enough

space in between some beings once

they're bigger we'll be able to get lots

of room and light

and you'll notice that it's kind of a

diamond pattern here planting in a

diamond pattern is the best way to get

the most light and air to all of your

plants okay so we're gonna go ahead and

plant our tomato and pepper right now

peppers are planted at the soil surface

level so where you see the top of the

soil in that pot you're gonna match that

up with the top of the surface here so

you just want to dig a hole and put it

in the tomato I'm gonna plant it to that

first stem there so I'm gonna plant a

little bit of that stem in there because

like I said the tomato is able to get

more roots on the stem by doing that and

it will allow the plant to get more

nutrients and water easily so a great

way is to just dig your hole and then

test it by putting it in and then you

can just put your hand at the top of the

surface and then see where it's gonna

hit so that looks pretty good to me

you just squeeze around the outside of

the pot I like to put my forefinger and

middle finger to support the plant let

it come out if there's a lot of roots

around here which this does not have

that but sometimes they get root bound

and that means that there's just roots

or spiraling around the soil so it helps

to just kind of lightly massage the

roots and get them loosened up so that

they can go out into the ground easily

I'll just rest that in there and I like

to kind of hold on to the plant as

you're putting the soil in so that

you're not pushing it around or

accidentally snapping the stem push the

soil around and then you can slightly

compress it down just snug it in there

and when you water that's also going to

help to congeal and and take out any air

pockets around the root zone and that's

it

we go there we go it's really helpful so

that you remember what varieties you did

you know that your pop your transplants

are gonna come with this little sticker

deal so just put it in the ground and

then you know what type of tomato you

have this right here is a beefsteak and

that right there is a as Bonnie Belle

sweet it's got pepper this is a jalapeno

and that's a zucchini green squash over

there the plants are a little smaller

and weaker you can pile up more dirt

onto the stem to help support it so if

there's a lot of wind or rain just get

knocked over we want to divide our swosh

so we're gonna get two plants out of one

so I'm just gonna cut it right down the

middle and whenever you're doing

something like this or you take the root

ball out of the pot you want to get it

planted immediately don't let it sit out

in the sunlight so I pulled both of them

out yeah there you go so now you got

roots on this side roots on that side

and these will survive no problem and

now we got a two-for-one deal from Home

Depot so my mom's gonna plant that one

I'm gonna throw this one in the other

plot so one other thing that we could

plant here using an inter planting

technique would be to plant lettuce or

cilantro green onion maybe some radish

seeds in between the tomatoes the squash

and the pepper that's gonna grow in

about 30 days you could harvest that

before the squash the tomato get big

enough to shade out those plants so you

can also think about playing with the

space in between plants and the days to

maturity that each plant will take to

grow we're just gonna throw these in

real quick and just a little note on

spacing now tomatoes in a garden system

you want to space them you know about

two and a half feet is pretty good if

you're doing a production farm based

system you can stack them as close as 12

inches apart if you want to see a video

on that I can put that in the dish

but this is going to be a lot easier

especially for first-time gardeners keep

a bit more space you want to make sure

they have enough light so that you're

successful they're easier to trellis all

that now this pot when it came with has

one of these compostable outer materials

it's like a cardboard material you can

plant with it in there I'm gonna pull it

off whatever comes off really easily

because I want to let the roots kind of

dive out you can just plant these but

you know there's a little bit left on

there I'll probably just leave it got

basil in the middle here as our

companion plant and basil is really nice

obviously because it tastes good with

the tomatoes and it'll even help to

resist some of the pests so the last

crop that we'll put in these beds are

potatoes because they're super

high-calorie and we already have some

ready to plant basically what you're

seeing here these are the eyes that come

out of the tuber and they're super easy

to plant you just take your knife and

cut the potato in half and you can

actually split these eyes so I do it

like this now I took that one potato and

now I've got two potential potato plants

you can think about these as a seed to

get your own potatoes to do this you'll

just store them in a dark place and wait

and eventually they will do this so real

cheap way is just to go to the store buy

them organic let them sit around you can

do the same with sweet potatoes and once

they come the eyes start coming out this

is even a little later than you need to

wait they're ready to go we need to

plant these out about every 12 inches

and we can fit two rows in this bed you

need to space them out every two to

three feet in the row

now for planting you can dig a big

trench here or you could just take your

shovel dig down in plant which is I'm

going to do since I don't have a lot of

them and when you plant them you want

the eyes to be facing up

I think it's really tall you're gonna

start piling up more dirt around it and

it'll be able to send off more nodes

that are gonna create more potatoes for

you so check out some other videos to

learn how to grow potatoes but they'll

take about 70 to 120 days depending on

the variety before you harvest them so

the last couple things that I'll mention

just check it out my mom put these

tomato cages here so this is going to be

how we will trellis these up if you want

to check out a more advanced trellis or

some other ways to truss I've got videos

on those that I'll put in the

description one last thing to mention is

rodents and rabbits things like that

so we're gonna be putting up a fencing

here basically to keep them out so they

don't come in and eat our baby seedlings

so that'll depend on your area though so

you can get fencing like this from any

type of hardware store Lowe's Home Depot

and stakes that you can put into your

garden beds also bird netting is another

cheap way that works really well to

cover you can make little hoops from 9

gauge wire or half-inch EMT conduit

there's a lot of different ways that you

could build protective structures for

your garden so the final step is just to

water these in they need water

immediately after being planted get the

ground saturated so that they have

plenty of water the plants are gonna be

a bit weaker in that first week while

they get acclimated to the new home that

they're in we are gonna actually add

some nutrients to our water now this

isn't necessary but since I have the

extra nutrients I want to show you guys

some more techniques so for this we're

gonna add in some of my fish emulsion

and seaweed that provides NPK nitrogen

phosphate and potassium and all the

minerals that they're going to need I

also have some of my Korean national

farming inputs such as water soluble

calcium calcium phosphate and we're also

gonna water in some more azomite I'll

mix that into the water as well and then

make a really beautiful nutrient blend

there and water in with that so that the

plants will have everything that they

could possibly need right from the start

but if you're growing in great compost

don't worry about it

that will also provide enough nutrition

this is just something extra that you

can do and I want to inform you about

all right so now we're gonna make our

nutrient water I'm not gonna go into

depth on all this you guys but I've got

other videos about it and I will make

more videos about this sort of stuff in

the future Oh HN or oriental herbal

medicine it's a bunch of extracted herbs

garlic licorice a bunch of other ones

this is calcium phosphate and calcium

this helps with the structure of the

plant helping it to build good root

systems good grew this is a fpj

fermented plant juice this is different

plant enzymes and nutrients bacteria

this is IMO - this is wild harvested

biology

this is fish emulsion and seaweed we'll

do some more azomite as well now you

could get some products online I'll put

some links in the description that's

easy ready to go these other things

these are things that I made and things

that I'm gonna be talking a lot more

about on my channel so be sure to

subscribe so you can learn how to make

all your own nutrients at home for very

very low cost so now we're going to

dilute with rainwater here and my

parents have a super cool rainwater

setup actually they have all these 250

gallon water tanks so that let's go

ahead and add the water

so we're gonna water in with this first

and soil if it's dry it's it's deceptive

how much water can actually be held in

the soil so we may add this and check

the soil and see that it's still dry

underneath which means we'll come back

in with a hose and water this in further

so this soil is already pretty wet from

our rain so as I stick my finger down in

there I can see it's soaked all the way

down we will come in with a hose though

after we plant our seeds and just give

it a final soaking to make sure it's

fully wet all the way around the root

zone but a great way to check if your

plant has enough moisture is just to dig

back the soil about an inch now when

you're initially watering you want to do

a deep watering I'm a big fan of doing

deep watering less often and that's

gonna more mimic what rainfall is gonna

be like ok so now let's get into seeds

first we're gonna do direct seeding

right into the bed some crops that you

can direct seed are things like root

vegetables beets radish carrots beans

bush beans you can of course direct seed

things like lettuce and spinach as well

some things are better to do in cell

trays just because it's a little bit

easier you can keep them protected make

sure that they sprout and then you put

them into the ground when they're big

enough so I'll show you guys how to do

cell trays right after this so for the

direct seeding here we're just gonna do

beets radish and carrots all these seeds

are from true leaf market they're a

great seed company that I'd highly

recommend and I'll put the link in the

description but we're gonna do a the

rainbow blend of carrots Chioggia beets

which are really beautiful when you cut

them out of a candy cane striped pattern

and then French breakfast radishes which

are really juicy mild not very spicy

radish so for this we just need to make

some lines places little furrows where

we can put the seeds so I just like to

take a big stick and just pull it all

the way across now if you've seen my

other videos and my farm you know I use

a direct cedar like the earth way cedar

but you can't really do

that in a raised bed like this so you

can see these horizontally you can also

see them parallel with your bed here

it's just going to depend you can do it

either way and be successful we have our

lines running vertically here so we're

gonna do them in line with our

irrigation lines if you want to have

more variety or try to stack more types

of plants in here then doing it the

horizontal way is kind of nice because

you could fit more rows in here so it

just comes down to personal preference

and we're gonna go vertically to give my

parents a lot more vegetables of only

three types I just like to use a stick

or something like that just because it

makes it a little bit less effort we're

trying to plant these seeds about a half

an inch down the larger a seed is the

deeper it typically needs to go but most

of your veggies will do fine at half an

inch carrots do better at about a

quarter inch that the highest planted

seeds beets you can do about 1/2 to 3/4

inch something like a bean or corn seed

that's huge can go down about an inch

beans can be 3/4 inch so just to give

you guys some examples of how to plant

these so I'm going to clean we're just

gonna clean these lines up a little bit

we're do two rows of carrots one row of

radish one row of beets so this row I'm

gonna make sure that I get it flat and

not too deep for the carrots and if you

go a little bit too deep when you cover

the seeds at the end you could just

lightly cover them and if you so that if

you made your holes a little bit too

deep for the seeds it's just a way of

getting around that whereas the ones my

mom did their radishes and beets so if

they're a little bit deeper that'll be

great

and just you want to be sure at the end

when we cover them that they're only

about a half an inch in depth so now as

far as the seeding density how many

seeds you're gonna drop in here you just

can just do it by hand and I'm doing way

too many that's an example over seeding

that's that's too much

when these sprout up we're gonna have to

thin them down a little bit if you leave

it this thick

the carrot won't be able to grow into a

really big root so let me try that again

so here's the example of a good seating

density for the carrot seed that's gonna

come out really nice and produce nice

big carrots that is way too many seeds

that's gonna require you to come back

and thin them out if you want to have

nice big carrots so just be careful as

you're seeding to not do too many it

might even be a good idea especially if

you're starting out to take a picture of

what how many seeds this looked like so

that when they sprout up you can learn

from the experience so that next time

you don't do as many or maybe you do

more because a lot of this is going to

come by trial and error for you

all of these sprout I'll be able to feed

the entire neighborhood yeah so here's

an example of some really good beats

eating density and don't worry if some

of them sprout close to each other one

will get bigger than the other you can

harvest that one first and let the other

one grow larger and that's what I did on

my farm it's just a great way to get

more harvest in the same amount of area

these are the radish seeds and that's a

nice looking density radish you can

oversee it a bit more and still have

great radishes so this looks great

so on the carrots when we can we cover

them we're just gonna really lightly

cover them very that's a little bit too

much they only need about a quarter inch

of covering they barely anything and

they'll be fine we made these furrows a

bit too big that's okay because you can

kind of correct that mistake for

whatever your seeds you have as you

cover them

lot more leeway so for that we can just

grab the furrow and close it like this

we want these to be covered half an inch

and then one thing you can do is come

back and then Pat it down and that's

going to give the perfect seed to soil

contact so once we add water it's going

to help use germinate perfectly okay so

that's it and now all we need to do is

just water these down with a hose we can

use our irrigation lines and those will

help to keep it wet

but for germinating seeds it's really

important that once they're wet you keep

them wet and especially for carrots if

you get the carrots wet they start

germinating and then they dry out they

will die so if you're having a problem

getting your carrots to germinate

keeping them wet and maybe the issue

that you're facing some people will tell

you that if you get water on the leaves

it'll actually refract the light and it

can burn your leaves but that is not

true you can get plant leaves wet and

they're completely fine I would

recommend though don't water leaves of

your plants in the evening because that

moisture is gonna sit on the plants all

night long so things for like cucumbers

and tomatoes that can cause fungal

issues developing in your plant so and

even during the day I don't water the

leaves of my cucumbers or tomatoes

unless I'm full you're feeding which

means feeding the plants nutrition

through the leaves and in that case you

can do that in the evening or early

morning because you want the water to

sit on those leaves inoculating biology

and and nutrients into those leaves so

now we just want to make sure and check

to see how wet dry wet or dry this is

and by checking it needs more water so

we want to make sure that it's for sure

an inch down of wet and like I said soil

will take a lot of water so you may need

to do this to three or even four times

depending on how dry your soil is to be

but it's how big the distance is between

that summer squash to the tomato and the

pepper summer squashes get gigantic so

you'd really need a three by three foot

area for them or as they continue to

vine and get longer you can put them on

the side of your bed once they get big

enough you can drape them over the edge

of the garden bed and look continue to

grow out on the ground surrounding the

bed and they're getting the nutrients

from this good soil where their roots

are down here and that's another great

way that you can grow more and less

space you can do this with a winter

squash like a pumpkin or a butternut

squash as well nice so now that's super

wet in there that'll be good enough to

germinate and then we'll just come every

day give it a little bit more water

until we see the plants germinate and

pop out of the ground and we're gonna

continue to make sure that they're very

wet for that first week until the plants

get taller and they show their first

true leaves so the first two leaves that

come out of most plants are their

cotyledon stage leaves those are the

first ones that allow them to get

sunlight and then put out the next true

leaves which are the leaves that the

plant will put out for the rest of its

life so once the plants are about two

three weeks old out of the ground

they're gonna develop a root system and

that root systems gonna go out and seek

water at that point you don't want to

over water and water them every single

day that may be required in the heat of

summer if you have 90 or 100 degree

temperatures you probably are going to

need to water every day but if it's a

cloudy day or temperatures in the 80s

you're gonna want to wait

once plants get really established like

a huge tomato plant even if it is a

hundred degrees you don't need a water

every day because the roots are gonna go

out and find that water for the plant so

it's actually better to let the plant

seek out that water and you're helping

to train the roots to do that by not

giving it water every single day if you

give it water every day you know it's

gonna be comfortable it's not gonna want

to seek out and create a bigger root

system because they're gonna think hey

I've got everything I need right here in

the top but you want them to really seek

out

and expand the root system so watering

deeply less often once the plant is in

its adult stage is a way to make that

happen so that's how I recommend

watering once the plant is full-grown so

one final note on watering today it was

about 70 degrees and cloudy all day long

and the beds are already really wet they

don't need any more water so I would not

want to water today keep in mind the

temperature and the Sun and the water

that your beds are currently at before

you decide to water more and if I check

any of the transplants here also super

wet so if you check and there's already

plenty of water you can actually do more

damage by adding more water and keeping

everything too wet so keep that in mind

when you're thinking about if you need

to water so another fantastic way to

garden is to use a big container like

this so I'm just gonna show you how I

would set a large pot up for planting

strawberries but you could put anything

in here you could put a bunch of herbs

you could put lettuce kale and chard

whatever you'd like

you can get one of these just from any

of your hardware stores drill some holes

on the bottom for drainage and then we

just need to add soil which we're gonna

use the Kellogg's potting mix again and

then we're gonna add in some of our own

fertilizer azomite and then that

nutrient water that I created as well

okay now we want to make sure we leave

enough room for our tomato our

strawberry in here so Knicks we're gonna

add our fertilizer our azomite I just

mix that into the top like six inches

you don't need to mix it throughout the

soil all the way to the bottom the roots

aren't even together gonna go down there

at least for a long time and when you

water that's gonna help to incorporate

it down into those lower areas so we're

just gonna mix the top here because this

is an enclosed pot mixing this up is a

good thing to do and then after this I

would just keep adding nutrients to the

top top what's called top dressing you

don't need to mix nutrients in anymore

after this okay and now we're ready for

our strawberry so let's pull the soil to

the side here doesn't need much pulling

away the roots aren't very established

yet for the lure okay

and then we just want to put it in the

center of the pot

all right and then maybe we'll add a

little more soil to this side here make

sure everything is covered nice and low

push it down a little and that's it now

we're just gonna water this in also this

is a way that I'm keeping all my berries

together I've got blackberries I have

goji berries and barrels like this that

are surrounding the same area so now

we'll throw in our nutrient water

because this is already a fairly big

plant we'll water this every couple days

and once you know a week or two from now

the roots are really start to branch out

and we can water it less and less you

know every three to five days probably

until it gets really hot here in the

summer where it's gonna require more

water and again you can just pull back a

little bit of soil see if it's dry if it

is dry about an inch or two down then

give the plant more water and we'll also

water it a little bit more right now to

make sure the entire root zone is

completely wet okay so the final major

gardening skill that you need to know to

be a successful gardener is how to start

your own seeds so you can get cell trays

these are never sink cell trays I'll put

a link to the video if you want to find

more about cell trays and the different

types but if you're just getting started

I recommend just your standard fifty to

a hundred cell tray and I'll put a link

below for you guys

buuut chef farmer makes really high

quality ones that'll last forever so

they have these individual holes where

you're gonna put the soil and then plant

your seeds we're just gonna use the

Kellogg's raised gardening bed mix

because it has perlite it has good

nutrition everything ready to go and

it's $10 a bag so if you have that in

your local area that's a really great

one or try to find another propagation

mix that you could use or I've got a

video about how you can make your own

propagation mix if you have all the

different raw ingredients so we're just

gonna put our soil in if you're

wondering what these little white rocks

are that's called perlite

perlite allows for airflow and water

flow so that there's good drainage

some people will mix in a fertilizer or

worm castings into their propagation mix

and that's a great thing that you can do

to get really good nutrition for your

plants from the beginning this this

seedling mix will work really good

though and it already has worm castings

and a fertilizer in there so now I'm

just gonna kind of let it drop and see

if there's any areas I can give a little

bit more soil to and you can just run

your hand across the top and that'll

help to make it flat and easy for you

now the next step is to soak these get

them completely soaked all the way

through to the bottom of the cell just

like when we watered in our seeds it's

the same concept you've got to keep your

seeds wet the entire time to germinate

and investing in a nice water wand is a

great idea this thing is not the best

okay so now I can just dig down a little

and check yeah we're completely soaked

so the next step is we want to make

little half-inch holes for our seeds so

I like to use my finger and I just poke

it down a little bit and we're gonna

come at the end once we plant our seeds

and put soil over the top so just keep

that in mind as you're poking your holes

so this is set up for most seeds now

half-inch so here's the way I like to

approach planting and trying to decide

how many cells I want to dedicate to

each type of plant I either like to

separate them out by by row here so

there's 12 here so I could have 12

different types and get six of each type

or I could do it vertically maybe I want

a lot more of each plant so I get twelve

rows of six different types of plants we

have nine different types of plants here

so I'm going to go for the twelve row

spacing here now the other thing to keep

in mind is how much of each plant you

want

so something like a Swiss chard or a

kale you know for a family of four if

you have about five kale plants that's

gonna be more than enough kale that you

guys will be able to eat and that's the

same with your basil you know five to

ten plants max is what is the most that

you're gonna need oh the bunching onions

though you'll need a lot of those so I

might dedicate two rows to the bunching

onions so I did forget one type of seeds

and this is going to be a lettuce blend

so we'll do two rows of that as well but

lettuce is really great because you can

get a continual harvest and just harvest

around the outside of the plant rather

than harvesting the whole head that's a

great way to do it for home gardeners so

we're doing the seeds I like to pour it

into one on my hand and then grab with

my other hand and my two fingers and

then just rub my fingers slowly back and

forth and drop a couple of seeds in for

lettuce and any of these seeds you want

to put you know about two to three seeds

per cell so that you can guarantee

germination and the beauty of starting

them in a cell trait is that they're

very easy to comeback and thin to one

plant so you have a perfect large

transplant ready to go out into your

garden so next we'll do the bunching

onion and a bunching onion is unique

because you don't need to thin them you

can plant three four five all together

so when they sprout up I'll just plant

whatever's there I'm not actually gonna

thin them but the rest of these like

spinach cilantro Swiss chard kale

totsoni all that we're gonna go down to

a one plant now Swiss chard this type of

seed is called a germ seed so inside of

these there's actually multiple seeds so

you really only need to do one if you're

real worried about it you could do two

if you accidentally drop two don't worry

about that tot soy is a type of it's

called Asian spinach and for tots soy

these seeds look identical to kale and

broccoli seeds so if you're not familiar

what these plants look like it's a good

idea to either label your seeds or space

them out accordingly so rather than

putting my kale right next to the

topsoil I'll put it way over here on

this other side that way without

labeling I can know that they're

different types of plants and it'll be

easier to tell the difference for me

next we've got some herbs so this is

dill seed and this is dill that I saved

from plants that I grew from I don't

know three years ago probably now so a

little bit older seed I'll put a couple

more seeds in there just because the

germination rate will go down a bit

cilantro do 2 to 3 of these in there OOP

if you drop too many don't worry about

it you can always thin them out spinach

seed and this is some Jenna Vasey

basil this is my favorite type of basil

I just the fragrance and the flavor is

just the best it's an Italian heirloom

basil and then the final we're gonna do

some sunflower seeds these are also

seeds that I saved like I said earlier

the sunflower seeds I'm just gonna push

them in deeper with my fingers here to

make sure they have enough depth and now

all of this is ready to receive soil

over the top then you just rub over the

top to get it nice and even spread it

out just like that and now the final

step is just gonna be to water this and

then every single day I'll come out and

water these in the summertime you'll

need the water probably twice a day

maybe even three times depending on the

spot you can't even put this in partial

shade in the beginning so that the soil

doesn't dry out as quickly so I'm gonna

go put this probably under the

pomegranate trees and then just water

that every day until I see germination

so here we are about seven days later we

can see the chard the the kale and the

top soy are starting to sprout now and

even some of the lettuce seedlings here

so things are off to a real good start

and then the next week the rest of them

will start sprouting and I just wanted

to mention a couple things about where I

place my seeds I actually put them over

here on this black plastic it all my

farming stuff was covered up and the

black plastic attracted a lot of heat

and I kind of use that as a mock heat

mat so temperatures were in the high 60s

low 70s I just wanted to try and heat up

the seedlings a little bit more to help

the germination process that's another

thing that you can do with seedlings is

you can get what's called a heat mat and

put the heat mat underneath so that if

you have lower temperatures or if you're

starting your seeds out in a much colder

climate the heat mat is gonna really

help you get a better germination rate

and now we're just gonna I'm just going

to keep watering these once a day I did

skip one day of watering when it was

just cloudy all day because I noticed

they were plenty wet and these will grow

for about two three weeks once the

seedlings get you know about yay tall

and they have their true leaves they

will be ready to be planted another

thing you can do to test to see if

they're ready is you can if your cell

trait has some deep enough holes you can

kind of poke them from underneath or you

can squeeze the side and grab from the

base of the plant and pull the plant up

and out and you'll see how much roots

that they have it should have a good

amount of roots developed before you

plant them and if the plant is tall

enough and has good size tree leaves

then then that'll be the case today's

fifth installment of this series is

gonna be about irrigation and I'm going

to show you two different ways to set up

simple gardening irrigation that's going

to be cheap and very efficient on your

watering bill all of my drip irrigation

I buy from drip depot.com they're just a

fantastic company work with great prices

the quality's excellent I've been using

them for the last three and a half years

and I have zero complaints about them or

their products if you want to buy any

drip parts or tools I highly recommend

them and I have a link down in the

description that if you click through

that and buy through them it's an

affiliate link that gives me a small

kickback so that's just a great way that

you can support the channel

getting something that you need and at

no cost to you so I really appreciate

you guys using the link and I know that

you're gonna be super happy with their

service as well and if you missed any of

the other five parts of the gardening

series or any of the live streams that

happened later in the day where I answer

all of your questions for one hour I put

all the links down in the description so

you can check those out and I have a lot

of other irrigation videos that I've

made over the last few years that should

really help you if you want to build a

more complex irrigation system a larger

one or even for a smaller system like

using grow bags and things like that and

I'll put all those videos in the

description as well so let's get started

and first I'm just gonna introduce you

guys to a couple different types of

irrigation systems and some different

terms that you'll need to know moving

forward so we're going to talk about

three different types of lines polylines

emitter or spaghetti line and drip tape

each one of these has their uses

advantages and disadvantages and I'll

speak about each one so the first one

let's talk about is your main line your

poly line so this and all these parts

are made from a long lasting UV

resistant plastic this is half-inch you

can also buy three quarter inch or one

inch main line for a small garden you'll

really only need a half-inch

for a larger garden let's say 500 square

feet or more worth of lines then I

recommend a 3/4 inch main line and on

drip depot.com they have a irrigation

calculator where you can put in the

lengths of lines a gallon per hour of

the lines your flow rate pressure all of

those different things and then it'll

calculate how much line that you can do

on the amount of pressure that you have

so I'll put those tools and the links in

the description so this is the tubing

that's going to deliver your water from

your valve or your hose faucet to your

beds then from here we deliver the water

to the beds through either emitter line

or drip tape so here's an example of

emitter line or spaghetti line and for

intensive gardening I recommend every

six-inch emitters so where this little

bump is this is where it releases the

water and they come out at different

different flow rates

I like the higher rates so around four

point four six gallons per hour so then

every six inch you have one so that when

you do a real intensively planted garden

it's gonna give plenty of water to your

plants and your soil and what's nice

about these is that they're really small

so they're easy to maneuver and get

around your plants take in and out and

they don't get in the way when your

seeds are germinating one disadvantage

to these though is that they get clogged

fairly easily especially if you have

hard water and I'll show you guys in

this one irrigation bed that we're gonna

fix today at my parents place these

spaghetti lines are all like most of

them are clogged and that's why we're

going to replace them and I'll we're

gonna replace them with my special drip

tape system that I use at my market

garden and I'm gonna adapt it to a

raised bed garden so that you guys can

see that and this is I think the best

way to set up irrigation in terms of

cost reliability and just even spread of

water overall but if you want something

that's just ready to go not complicated

at all

I like these spaghetti lines and I'm

going to show you the spaghetti line

setup and this more complex but better

drip tape setup so now we have drip tape

and drip tape is just like the emitter

line but as you can see it looks like

tape and it lays flat it is a bit wider

so it can get in the way of things a

little bit but in general it's really

not bad at all and like I said I use

this in a super productive market garden

and all farms use this stuff if they're

not using overhead irrigation so just

like the emitter line every six inches

there's a spot where the water will come

out these are way less prone to clogging

and I really don't have problems with

these clogging ever

because of the way that these work

because these when you fill it up with

water this will expand into a tube so

it's much more difficult even for hard

water to clog these but hard water can

eventually clog these up but it's very

cheap to replace these and I like to use

the thickest 15 mil plastic because

those can handle a 15 psi pressure

regulator and the higher pressure allows

you know more flow rate more water

coming out more quickly so you don't to

leave the irrigation timer on the valves

on is long and prevents clogging more so

let me show you the emitter line setup

and then we're gonna go and then we're

gonna modify my parents existing

spaghetti line or emitter line set up

and show you how I would do that so at

my parents house they have a more

complex irrigation system where it's

running off of this timer and this runs

to some electronic valves that are

inside of this box which I'm not going

to show you guys that the best way for a

home garden I think is to run everything

off of a faucet but these valves run out

and over here I tapped into the PVC that

runs underneath the deck here and then I

attached the half-inch line right here

to that so that's where I'm getting when

I turn that timer on the water's flowing

to this half-inch so for your home setup

just imagine this is going to a hose

faucet this half-inch lines running here

now I have a quarter-inch line with no

holes in it running to a on/off valve I

like to use the on/off valves instead of

the transfer barb a transfer barb is

what connects the quarter inch to

quarter inch so that's what I'm using

here I'll pull it so you can see it and

with this you can control pressure or

completely turn off one of these lines

so it gives you a lot of control and I

really like that with the emitter lines

will just be replacing these with a drip

tape setup so that's one of the beds and

then you can see there's a tee that

comes off another tee

and an on/off valve and I like to have

valves in between each section or plot

so that if I want to I can turn one of

these off in case maybe the other beds

it's too wet but this bed needs water

that way I can run the single valve from

the timer on and then have control over

which beds are getting water so this one

runs all the way here you can run the

polyline aboveground which is great or

you can just throw you know an inch or

two of dirt if you want to keep it

protected from the Sun but it lasts a

long time in the sunlight and then it's

the same setup over here that's an

example of the transfer barb and you

punch in to the half-inch line with a

couple different tools so these lines

are working perfectly they're not

clogged at all so that's why we're gonna

be leaving these alone now in these you

might be able to see that we're getting

water at the beginning of the lines here

but then at the ends it's completely dry

and there's nothing coming out we tried

poking them with a knife to unclog them

but they're just completely clogged so

we just need to get rid of these and

replace them so now let's talk about

your timers I'm a big fan of the orbit

timers I've had great success with them

they've worked for years off of the

original batteries had never failed on

me the valves never broke and I've used

you know five different ones over the

last three years for my different valves

and I've been very happy with them they

could have a little bit more custom

control but for a home-based garden

they're just perfect so what's great

about these is they will attach to a

hose faucet so first you're gonna put

your particle filter on and you'll put

your timer and if you want you can get a

like a boogie brew filter this filters

out chlorine and heavy metals and just

makes your water a lot better and it'll

you know make the salt it'll help the

soil biology thrive a bit better I

always use these at my farm it's just a

very simple filter that's going to just

make the water a bit cleaner for you

plants in your soil so you can put that

on next and then your timer on a faucet

like this it's a bit harder to have this

set up because it's so long so next

would go your timer then your pressure

regulator on the valve this is an extra

manual valve or you can hook up a hose

to this and then you could run your half

inch polyline from here and they have a

compression fitting that you shove on to

the line and that just screws on to the

regulator here or like I said if you

want to maintain pressure all the way to

the bed then just and you'll just adapt

the half-inch a compression to the three

quarter inch hose threaded fitting put

that on here run it to your bed and then

you'll put the pressure regulator on the

half inch going into your bed and

there's something that you should know

there's something called hose threaded

fittings and there's pipe threaded

fittings pipe threaded is for like a PVC

pipe hose thread is for just like it

sounds for it for a normal hose and if

you buy the wrong one it will not thread

correctly the hose threaded fitting is a

bit wider spaced the pipe thread it is a

bit skinnier threaded so all the faucets

coming out of your house

that's called a hose thread now with

this faucet is attached to of going into

this wall this would be a pipe thread so

I just keep that in mind when you're

looking at your fittings stuff for

irrigation though it's pretty

universally hose threaded but you can

buy pipe threaded stuff for your

irrigation so just keep that in mind but

all of this orbit stuff we is all hose

threaded pressure regulators they can

come in pipe or hose threaded but

because we're using my parents more

advanced like landscaping valve setup

we're running it off of that so we're

just going to imagine that be half-inch

over there that we're about to go

work on is coming from a timer set up

more like this or you may have a

landscape irrigation setup like my

parents have and for that you're just

going to need to tap into the PVC pipe

adapt that to half-inch and for that

your you are definitely going to need a

pressure regulator because those

landscaping lines are much higher

pressure so you'll just buy the pressure

regulator that you'll need whether

you're using the emitter line which is

25 psi some and you'll just check your

line some of them can go up to 40 psi I

believe so it'll say that on the

packaging for the line that you buy 15

psi or 10 psi depending on which type of

drip tape that you buy and the links

down in the description I'll all put

some notes there to help you guys when

purchasing and of course you can call

drip DeBell and they can help consult

you on what you should buy as well

they're really helpful on the phone and

I have many other videos explaining some

of this stuff and more depth if this

wasn't enough for you because irrigation

is a bit confusing especially when do

you dealing with all the fittings the

pressures and all of that especially

when you're hearing this stuff at first

it kind of gets a bit jumbled in your

mind so don't worry about that I'll try

to make it a little bit easier for you

and the instructions below so what we're

gonna do is put a tee right here 1/2

inch up and then into the bed and create

our new drip tape emitter system so I

want you guys to think about this this

half-inch is is running from the valve

now coming from the PVC into this

half-inch that's where we could run this

15 psi pressure regulator and then boom

into this half-inch line now I don't

have the other piece that I need for

this regulator but that's okay because

I'm gonna regulate the pressure with the

valve that we're gonna attach here now

for you running off of a hose faucet

valve you can put the psi regulator you

know off of the timer and then adapt it

and 1/2 inch this is a compression

fitting the 1/2 inch goes inside of

there and it would bring it all the way

here to the beginning of your garden bed

so what I want to do is raise this up

and put the 1/2 inch right at the edge

of my garden bed here so for the tea

we're gonna bring it in and in between

here the 1/2 inch will go and it'll stop

here on each side so I'm just gonna mock

it up and then cut the line and now

we'll put it on and see once I put it on

that side see how much room we have on

there and you could even put it on one

side first and then cut this side to

length that'd be a really safe way to do

it so now we're ready to get the 1/2

inch up and into the bed and 1/2 inch is

super cheap you can get 500 feet of this

stuff for like 50 bucks

so now we'll put this in it's just like

a bunch of Lego pieces what we're gonna

do now we're gonna adapt my on and off

valve system that I used in my market

garden for a raised bed system so we're

gonna take this apart a little bit and

I'll put a link for the video of how to

actually make these if you want to do

in-ground beds but I'm gonna show you a

better way to adapt these for a garden

bed so what I want to have happen is

have this 1/2 inch run completely flush

with the backboard here so I know this

1/2 inch is gonna go inside about this

much and I want it to be pretty flush so

I'm gonna cut it right in there

and mock it up one more time to check it

yeah that'll be really good and now

we're gonna run a half inch piece all

the way across to the other end and cap

it off I'm gonna leave this half inch

open because we want to run water

through this line to clean out anything

that's in here whether that's spiders or

insects or dirt that got clogged in here

so we're gonna blow it out now we're

going to come back and pop some holes

into the line and then we can attach our

drip tape adapter pieces and there's two

different types that I'll show you to

help you make a decision on what you

would like and there's one more piece

that I'm gonna add to this which is this

valve and that way we can turn our bed

on and off if we would like to and this

is the really cool kind that you can

twist on and off so it's not like a

normal compression because you can take

them off and then reuse it so that's why

I really like this this type well for

the valve I could put it in a couple

places I could put it here I could put

it down here and I will just kind of

nail this into place it's got a nice

Bend here it's not getting a kink in it

at all and I could have made this a

little bit better but I'm kind of in a

rush to finish this so I can get to the

live stream so I think I'll just be

happy with this

we'll just attach this to the board and

then we'll run the valve right here so

we just need to cut in and this is

what's so nice about this kind of

half-inch of adapter piece you can shove

the half-inch on there you twist this

and now it makes a perfect watertight

connection but I can always take this

off and reuse it and you're probably

seeing a bunch of dirt on here and

that's why we really need to blow the

line out before we attach anything else

because if we get any dirt in the drip

tape there's a high chance that it could

clog so if we take the precaution now

and blow everything out at each step

you're way less likely to have any

issues with clogging later on awesome

that looks great and we just got a

little creative there and just made it

work I could do this a lot cleaner but

this is going to work great so let's

move on to the next step punch our holes

and then we'll attach our drip tape

almost done so here are the tools that

you use to punch into a half-inch line

this is your most basic and cheap one

where you shove it in and make the hole

this is my personal favorite especially

if you have to do a lot of lines because

you can just put the half-inch in

between here you squeeze and it makes a

perfect hole this is one that was given

to me but it's kind of nice because it

has a knife so that you can cut the pipe

and then on this end it has a punch so

you just press it down and that punches

the line and makes a hole so that you

can put in your transfer barb and then

of course I always keep my Felco pruners

with me I use these for everything

around the garden I highly recommend

this brand of pruner I've had these for

eight years and I can cut irrigation

with them I can prune trees with them I

can thin out seedlings whatever I need

to do I use these pruners

so we just blew out our main line here

nice and clean now we're ready to poke

our holes we always want to make sure

that our drip lines are laid out

equidistant so that we get a perfectly

even water spread so I've put out this

tape measure here to help us do that I'm

gonna be poking a hole at 8 inches this

is a four foot box so if I started

eighth night and I do want every 12

inches

it gives me basically a perfect layout

for this box and I'm gonna use my little

Rain Bird poker here we want to double

check your poking from the correct side

and when you're poking your holes you

want to make sure that it'll be on the

flat side of the tubing here so either

perfectly parallel with the ground or

like slightly up it's better than it

being down because this needs to poke in

right here so if it was down and be kind

of a bad angle so you want to make it

even or slightly up now we're gonna put

in our our transfer barbs which will

transfer from 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch into

drip tape connection and I'll put links

in the description for these different

pieces so it's easier for you to find

now I've got some that have valves on

them I only had three of them left so

one of them will be one that does not

have a valve this is how I ran all of

mine at the farm and I ran you know just

using one main valve but for my parents

a little garden right here I'll give

them a little bit more control so that

they can turn each individual line on

and off except for this one now all you

got to do is just push this end inside

of the hose and when it's completely in

Lamesa it make a nice popping sound just

like that and as you're doing all this

work just be extra careful to keep dirt

out of the line but we are gonna blow

these lines out one last time before we

connect everything so we'll get them

perfectly clean so all four are in now

we just need to cut our drip tape to

length and we need to make another

header piece that's going to match this

one so for making the header piece I am

just gonna line it right up here and I

want to make sure that I have enough

length so that I can fold these over in

order to

tie them off and if you check out my

video on how to like make these in mass

for more of a Market Garden larger size

you'll notice I have a whole process of

how to do this so it's really efficient

and doesn't take as long and then as I

go just make sure that these holes stay

lined up and then I'm just gonna with

with a hose I'm just gonna blow this out

really quick and then now we can tie

this guy off and I'll fold it back the

opposite direction so I can have some

more room okay now I'm going to throw

this at the other end and put some

irrigation tees to hold it in place and

then we can measure out our drip tape

and cut it to length now on the drip

tape itself you just want to you know

give enough link so that I could fit on

here if it's too close to your would if

your box or something take that into

consideration if maybe you want to have

a little bit more length away for the

very first dripper

so before I add anything my drip tape I

want to blow this out real quick

and now attach

okay give it a little tug to make sure

it's nice and stuck on there

and then you want to make sure when you

screw it on to completely unscrew before

you screw it forward to make sure it's

very tight because these can blow off if

the pressure is too high so now I'm just

going to trim these up and get them as

tight as possible and as drip tape gets

older and expands and contracts it will

stretch a little bit so you'll have to

come back and trim them up occasionally

and you'll notice that the lines will

get like kind of loose looking but once

you clip them a couple times they get

really good and then before I screw any

of these on I need to blow the tubes out

[Applause]

so I'm just matching it up I'm pulling

it past I know that the tubing will go

right basically to the edge of the green

if these are completely unscrewed you

also want to make sure that there's not

a emitter in the way and then I just cut

[Applause]

slide it up because I don't have the

right adapter for my pressure regulator

I'm just gonna run this with this valve

not open all the way and that will

reduce the pressure enough so that my

tape is fully pressurized as you can see

but it's not blowing them off the

adapters here so this will be really

great and it's gonna be a great system

for my parents so this is the adapted

version from my market garden and the

reason to have the header at the other

end is that it keeps all the lines

really straight and it's flow through

which means if there's a clog let's say

in that line and the water can't it goes

to here and then it gets clogged the

water can flow around to that side come

back through and still get to the other

emitters so even if there is a clog it

solves that issue alright so that was a

bit more of a complicated episode today

but I really hope this helped give you

some of the nitty-gritty details

surrounding drip irrigation and I know

it's a lot to take in but keep studying

about it and once you figure it out it's

really just like putting LEGO pieces

together and if you want just the

easiest way to do it then I guess I

would suggest 1/2 inch poly main line

with a quarter inch emitter line

and using on and off valves but like I

said I really love this drip tape system

and for all the different reasons that I

mentioned and there's links down the

description to help you guys find the

parts for this so go check those out and

I'll put links to all my videos about

drip irrigation and anything else that

you might need to help you along the way

if you found this video helpful be sure

to share it with a friend that wants to

learn how to garden to help them get

going that would be fantastic and be

sure to like comment I'll be sure to

help you guys if you have any questions

about what we did here I love to help

you get started in your garden

alright everybody that's going to be it

for this episode of nature's always

right I really hope this helps you to

learn some of the beginning gardening

skills that you're going to need thank

you so much mom for joining me had a

great time yeah and we can't wait to do

more gardening out here for the last

couple weeks while I'm living here and

I'll be sure to show you guys updates

check out my Instagram and follow me

there I'll put it updates on this garden

and maybe I'll even get to do one more

video about this before I leave so

alright have a great day on your farms

Lee Gardens and I'll see you guys and

the next nature is always right video

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