When to start the garden
Start a Garden: EVERYTHING You Need to Know
hey everybody welcome back to another
nature's always right video today I am
at my parents house because as you guys
know recently I shut down my urban farm
and I was going to be moving to
Tennessee to go to try to find land and
buy a home and all that well because of
the situation in the world right now
I've got to wait a couple more weeks
before I'm able to travel there and
start that search so today I want to
make a video all about beginning
gardening skills how to set up a raised
bed seed starting transplant planting
how to find two transplants if you go to
some place like Home Depot so this is
going to be for your beginning gardener
somebody who's just really new to this
and I'm gonna give you tips based upon
this the easiest things to acquire sow
seeds and transplants and we're also
gonna bring my mom in here and she's
gonna help us garden as well so it
should be a really fun episode and I
hope you guys enjoy seeing some of the
back-to-basics skills that I hope will
help a lot of people maybe who are
finding this video and are just getting
started on their gardening journey
alright so I just brought my mom in here
this is my mom everybody just wanted you
to meet her and she's gonna be helping
us today and I want her to talk about
the garden here when did you start this
garden and what did you make these boxes
out of before we even go well I best
recollection that I have is was about 27
28 years ago when we moved in here about
30 years ago we built some decks and
some patio covers and then at that time
we had some leftover wood and so we
decided to go ahead and make some
planting boxes that we could grow
vegetables flowers whatever kind of
suited my fancy at the time I think it's
Douglas fir they've held up actually
quite well for this many years we've got
areas where we have some termite damage
but for the most part they've held
together really well and I've grown a
lot of vegetables over the years in them
yeah so it's pretty cool to see how long
when these boxes can actually last you
sir talking about 27 years and then what
were some of the things that we used to
grow in these
initially we grew tomatoes onions
strawberries we did some artichoke we
did squash that's that's majority and
then eventually the strawberries gave me
a lot of problems your dad fell in love
with pomegranates right and then we went
to putting two pomegranate trees in one
of the beds let it take over and they've
done really well all the rest fears and
then tell them did I like gardening when
I was a little kid no you did not I
thought it was gonna be this will
creative thing get your kids out here
let them help you know grow things see
how things grow maybe they'll like
vegetables more if they didn't didn't
work in fact I was a bit disappointed
you were a little more helpful than your
sister by frankly in the garden she was
more excited and playing sports and
skating and doing other things but I
kind of kept it up until your lives got
really busy as children and got very
involved in what you were doing and
between that and working at that point I
kind of let the garden not do very much
other than grow some Tomatoes possibly
that kind of thing and then we just I
just kind of did minimal minimal things
and then my mom created a really amazing
garden just around the yard all these
landscaping plants and flowers and just
create a really beautiful space here she
did blueberries and citrus and pots and
stuff so yeah if you're a parent out
there and you're you wanted to get your
kids interested in gardening don't give
up hope because I eventually came back
to it and I had all those memories of
doing all this stuff so they can still
find the love for it and hey now we're
gardening again in these beds so all
right let's get to it and the first
thing that we're gonna do to these beds
is just amend them it's been a maybe
about a year or six months or something
like that since they last had some
veggies in here so the first thing we do
is just add some gardening soil and
we're gonna go get some transplants
right now at Home Depot just to show you
the simplest way to go get some plants
of course local nurseries are fantastic
if you want to start your own seeds
we're gonna show you how to start your
own seeds here in a few minutes so let's
go to Home Depot here we go
let me show you guys my favorite potting
soil mix and I think they have it pretty
much throughout the whole country but
you want to look for something that is
of course organic and naturally made no
synthetic chemical nutrients the brand
that I like is called Kellogg this is
their raised bed and potting mix and
this one's really great because let's
look at the ingredients courrier perlite
poultry manure feather meal peat moss
kelp meal worm castings back 100 all
natural fertilizers really good
nutrients and it's just a nice soil and
it's consistency you can start seeds
with this of course at Home Depot or
Lowe's there's a whole lot of other
choices a lot of stuff but like Miracle
Grow and companies like that which I
don't recommend buying Miracle Grow
they're a synthetic nutrient company
they do make organic stuff now about now
but they're really just focused on
making money and I really don't care as
much about you know making good soil so
that's like Kellogg if you have it's the
best and some of the other Kellogg
products that are really good if you
just need some garden soil just to kind
of pep up your beds maybe you've already
got really good drainage then this is
these bags are a little bit cheaper and
also it's the same formula just without
the perlite if you need to top dress any
of your trees things like that the grill
mulch is really great because it's gonna
provide nutrients and then it's got some
larger carbon pieces that will help
retain moisture and prevent weeds so
becomes my mom's beds are pretty fertile
and the soil looks really great we're
just gonna add one bed of the raised bed
mix per 8 by 10 bed and we're gonna add
in some other nutrients as well that
I'll show you when we get back to the
house so now let's go ahead and check
out our transplants and I'll give you
some tips on picking transplants and how
to pick a healthy one that's gonna do
really well in your garden so if you
take a look at these two Tomatoes here
one thing you want to know is the word
indeterminate and determine it the
determinant is a bushing type so it'll
fruit
basically just one time you'll get a lot
of fruit and then it'll be done the
indeterminate will keep giving you fruit
it's a vining type so it'll keep making
flowers that will produce fruit for you
I recommend just always growing and
determinate because you'll have a much
longer season of growing your two major
differences you're going to have your
cherry tomatoes and then your larger
slicing Tomatoes so that's going to be
your decision on what you'd like to grow
the cherry tomatoes though are really
prolific for a much longer time and when
I was running my urban farm I grew only
cherry tomatoes I like cherry tomatoes
because they don't have problems with
rotting or bugs if you lose one small
cherry tomato to a bug it's not a big
deal if you lose a big tomato it's a lot
more painful and they just don't produce
as many but they're larger so now let's
just take a look at the transplants and
what you would want to look for in a
healthy transplant so first I'm gonna
show you guys one that I don't think
looks very healthy this is some sort of
probably fungal issue the leaves are a
little bit pale or yellowed whereas if
you look at a transplant over here you
see how green those leaves are and the
entire plant all the way down even at
the lowest level of leaves they're not
very yellowed which is a good sign
because as the plant grows the lower
leaves will get yellow and die off and
I've got a great video on pruning
tomatoes that you should watch if you
want to learn more about taking care of
indeterminate tomatoes these are all the
suckers here if you see a tomato like
this you see how the leaves are curled
it looks like a worm was on here eating
it so this plant is having issues so I
wouldn't definitely not pick this one
you want to find a tomato that has the
leaves completely flat and unfurled like
this any of these look fantastic
so here we have some zucchinis and now
if a zucchini is the tomatoes peppers
cucumbers anything that produces a fruit
it's gonna need full Sun so keep that in
mind and you know all these are gonna
get very large so when you're planning
out the size of your garden think about
how large these are going to get these
are going to get to about three by three
feet in size you're also going to notice
that some of these have multiple plants
in one pot now when you go to plant
these you could actually break these
apart and get multiple plants out of
them or you can select for the largest
plant the best looking plant so that
would be this one here and you could
just cut these
away and only plant this one and you
only want to plant one squash plant in
one spot otherwise they're gonna compete
for light and you will not get very good
fruit they may even be more susceptible
to pests and disease if you do that so
make sure you're planting only one plant
in the one spot but you will see at the
nursery is that a lot of times this will
happen where they've planted multiple
seeds so you get multiple plants another
great thing to look for at Home Depot is
their discount section these are plants
that they let you know grow a little too
long you can see there's multiple
seedlings in there but as long as the
plant still looks healthy you could
totally plant this just cut it back to
one plant and go for it
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okay so we're back from Home Depot with
our Kellogg garden soil and we have two
four foot by 12 foot beds right here and
what we're gonna do is do the same thing
to each bed so we're gonna pour out one
of these before I do that let me show
you some other nutrients we were gonna
do as well so from my urban farm I had a
bunch of leftover things like some
organic fertilizer some leftover peat
buff some left over seeding propagation
mix we're going to dump all that in here
so I've got kelp meal and this is
azomite rock dust for minerals minerals
are super important for your garden just
like humans we don't have all the
vitamins and minerals we need it's hard
for our bodies to produce the ability to
have a strong immune system and this
also feeds the soil life as well so as
my rock dust is fantastic
and I'll put links down the description
to the different organic fertilizers and
minerals things that I like to use in my
garden so we're just going to spread a
little bit of this out maybe two full
cups of azomite over the surface
probably two cups or three cups of the
organic fertilizer and they always have
instructions on the bag to show you how
much that you should use for the amount
of area and then now we're gonna add our
one three cubic foot bag of garden soil
and this soil is already really good so
we're just doing enough to pep it up if
you're starting your soil from scratch
then you could just use all of the
raised bed potting mix from Kellogg or
if you're able to I recommend getting
some locally made compost that's really
high-quality because you're gonna save
money and it'll be even better soil than
what you can buy at a store so now we're
just gonna rake it and get it even
across the whole surface now you guys
know who watch my channel that I'm super
into no-till which means we're not
flipping the soil and mixing the soil
layers together
so we're just gonna mix it together here
at the surface and then when it rains or
we water this in that's gonna help to
mix these nutrients down deeper into the
ground just like when it rains in a
forest we're also gonna water at the end
of this with our plants and we're gonna
even water in some other nutrients that
I have leftover from my farm like fish
emulsion and seaweed I'm just gonna show
you guys some other things that I'm
doing with soil drenching for feeding
but just doing what we did right here
some organic fertilizers some good
composted soil that's all you really
need to grow good plants so now we've
prepared both of our beds with all the
amendments and the compost so now let's
get our transplants ready and we need to
put them in positions that are going to
be good for these plants now summer
fruiting plants like squash tomatoes
peppers eggplant cucumbers anything that
produces a fruit it needs a lot of
sunlight in order to produce things
really well so when looking at your yard
it's really important to know where's
south where's West where's East where's
north figure out those positions and the
winter you're gonna have the Sun
traveling in the southern sky but in the
summer time it's gonna really come
directly overhead so the camera right
now is facing west and the two corners
right here of these boxes get the most
sunlight throughout the year and
especially the summer so that's where we
want to have our squash our Tomatoes our
peppers things like the basil they don't
need as much sunlight and you can even
plant these underneath your tomatoes or
with your Tomatoes and that's called
inter planting and that's a really
fantastic way of getting more crops in a
smaller area and I have an in-depth
video all about that and I'm gonna put
links in the description to some other
videos that I've made that will really
help you to go more in depth on some of
these concepts that I'm just briefly
touching on in this beginner video so
the other thing to think about with your
light is what's around your garden so
you can see that there's that tree there
that's constant a little bit of shade
here so in this back corner because it
gets less light that's gonna be a great
place for green
for herbs even like radishes or some of
the smaller root vegetables will do
really well right there so look all
around your garden we've got these
eucalyptus trees on the west side so in
the late afternoon those blocks Sun as
well so you really just want to look all
around the garden so you see what's
gonna cast shade you could even watch
come out every couple hours into your
garden and see where the shade is before
you even plant to plan out your garden
so the next thing we kind of touched on
it at Home Depot but we need to prepare
these transplants
so these squash because they're so far
spaced apart we're gonna take a knife
and just cut through here to try to
separate the roots out it is gonna
damage the plants a little bit the most
guaranteed way to help the healthiest
plant would be to come in here with some
pruners and just clip out the weaker or
smaller looking one and plant the entire
root ball into the ground but in order
to save money if they're far enough
apart like this that's about two and a
half inches apart you can actually save
these so that's what we're gonna do now
on your Tomatoes tomatoes need to be
prepped by removing the couple bottom
leaves because we're gonna actually bury
this up until about here right below
this first leaf here and when you do
that on a tomato it'll actually produce
roots higher up on the stalk the other
things out of tomato you want to do or
remove any suckers which are places in
the crotch of the plant between the main
stem and the side shoots and those just
draw energy away and we want to really
force this plant to get tall and go on
to the trellis that we're gonna make and
I've got a video all about pruning
Tomatoes as well any dead or dying
leaves on a plant it's better just to
remove them okay so here's the
configuration that we came up with we
want to make sure that there's enough
space in between some beings once
they're bigger we'll be able to get lots
of room and light
and you'll notice that it's kind of a
diamond pattern here planting in a
diamond pattern is the best way to get
the most light and air to all of your
plants okay so we're gonna go ahead and
plant our tomato and pepper right now
peppers are planted at the soil surface
level so where you see the top of the
soil in that pot you're gonna match that
up with the top of the surface here so
you just want to dig a hole and put it
in the tomato I'm gonna plant it to that
first stem there so I'm gonna plant a
little bit of that stem in there because
like I said the tomato is able to get
more roots on the stem by doing that and
it will allow the plant to get more
nutrients and water easily so a great
way is to just dig your hole and then
test it by putting it in and then you
can just put your hand at the top of the
surface and then see where it's gonna
hit so that looks pretty good to me
you just squeeze around the outside of
the pot I like to put my forefinger and
middle finger to support the plant let
it come out if there's a lot of roots
around here which this does not have
that but sometimes they get root bound
and that means that there's just roots
or spiraling around the soil so it helps
to just kind of lightly massage the
roots and get them loosened up so that
they can go out into the ground easily
I'll just rest that in there and I like
to kind of hold on to the plant as
you're putting the soil in so that
you're not pushing it around or
accidentally snapping the stem push the
soil around and then you can slightly
compress it down just snug it in there
and when you water that's also going to
help to congeal and and take out any air
pockets around the root zone and that's
it
we go there we go it's really helpful so
that you remember what varieties you did
you know that your pop your transplants
are gonna come with this little sticker
deal so just put it in the ground and
then you know what type of tomato you
have this right here is a beefsteak and
that right there is a as Bonnie Belle
sweet it's got pepper this is a jalapeno
and that's a zucchini green squash over
there the plants are a little smaller
and weaker you can pile up more dirt
onto the stem to help support it so if
there's a lot of wind or rain just get
knocked over we want to divide our swosh
so we're gonna get two plants out of one
so I'm just gonna cut it right down the
middle and whenever you're doing
something like this or you take the root
ball out of the pot you want to get it
planted immediately don't let it sit out
in the sunlight so I pulled both of them
out yeah there you go so now you got
roots on this side roots on that side
and these will survive no problem and
now we got a two-for-one deal from Home
Depot so my mom's gonna plant that one
I'm gonna throw this one in the other
plot so one other thing that we could
plant here using an inter planting
technique would be to plant lettuce or
cilantro green onion maybe some radish
seeds in between the tomatoes the squash
and the pepper that's gonna grow in
about 30 days you could harvest that
before the squash the tomato get big
enough to shade out those plants so you
can also think about playing with the
space in between plants and the days to
maturity that each plant will take to
grow we're just gonna throw these in
real quick and just a little note on
spacing now tomatoes in a garden system
you want to space them you know about
two and a half feet is pretty good if
you're doing a production farm based
system you can stack them as close as 12
inches apart if you want to see a video
on that I can put that in the dish
but this is going to be a lot easier
especially for first-time gardeners keep
a bit more space you want to make sure
they have enough light so that you're
successful they're easier to trellis all
that now this pot when it came with has
one of these compostable outer materials
it's like a cardboard material you can
plant with it in there I'm gonna pull it
off whatever comes off really easily
because I want to let the roots kind of
dive out you can just plant these but
you know there's a little bit left on
there I'll probably just leave it got
basil in the middle here as our
companion plant and basil is really nice
obviously because it tastes good with
the tomatoes and it'll even help to
resist some of the pests so the last
crop that we'll put in these beds are
potatoes because they're super
high-calorie and we already have some
ready to plant basically what you're
seeing here these are the eyes that come
out of the tuber and they're super easy
to plant you just take your knife and
cut the potato in half and you can
actually split these eyes so I do it
like this now I took that one potato and
now I've got two potential potato plants
you can think about these as a seed to
get your own potatoes to do this you'll
just store them in a dark place and wait
and eventually they will do this so real
cheap way is just to go to the store buy
them organic let them sit around you can
do the same with sweet potatoes and once
they come the eyes start coming out this
is even a little later than you need to
wait they're ready to go we need to
plant these out about every 12 inches
and we can fit two rows in this bed you
need to space them out every two to
three feet in the row
now for planting you can dig a big
trench here or you could just take your
shovel dig down in plant which is I'm
going to do since I don't have a lot of
them and when you plant them you want
the eyes to be facing up
I think it's really tall you're gonna
start piling up more dirt around it and
it'll be able to send off more nodes
that are gonna create more potatoes for
you so check out some other videos to
learn how to grow potatoes but they'll
take about 70 to 120 days depending on
the variety before you harvest them so
the last couple things that I'll mention
just check it out my mom put these
tomato cages here so this is going to be
how we will trellis these up if you want
to check out a more advanced trellis or
some other ways to truss I've got videos
on those that I'll put in the
description one last thing to mention is
rodents and rabbits things like that
so we're gonna be putting up a fencing
here basically to keep them out so they
don't come in and eat our baby seedlings
so that'll depend on your area though so
you can get fencing like this from any
type of hardware store Lowe's Home Depot
and stakes that you can put into your
garden beds also bird netting is another
cheap way that works really well to
cover you can make little hoops from 9
gauge wire or half-inch EMT conduit
there's a lot of different ways that you
could build protective structures for
your garden so the final step is just to
water these in they need water
immediately after being planted get the
ground saturated so that they have
plenty of water the plants are gonna be
a bit weaker in that first week while
they get acclimated to the new home that
they're in we are gonna actually add
some nutrients to our water now this
isn't necessary but since I have the
extra nutrients I want to show you guys
some more techniques so for this we're
gonna add in some of my fish emulsion
and seaweed that provides NPK nitrogen
phosphate and potassium and all the
minerals that they're going to need I
also have some of my Korean national
farming inputs such as water soluble
calcium calcium phosphate and we're also
gonna water in some more azomite I'll
mix that into the water as well and then
make a really beautiful nutrient blend
there and water in with that so that the
plants will have everything that they
could possibly need right from the start
but if you're growing in great compost
don't worry about it
that will also provide enough nutrition
this is just something extra that you
can do and I want to inform you about
all right so now we're gonna make our
nutrient water I'm not gonna go into
depth on all this you guys but I've got
other videos about it and I will make
more videos about this sort of stuff in
the future Oh HN or oriental herbal
medicine it's a bunch of extracted herbs
garlic licorice a bunch of other ones
this is calcium phosphate and calcium
this helps with the structure of the
plant helping it to build good root
systems good grew this is a fpj
fermented plant juice this is different
plant enzymes and nutrients bacteria
this is IMO - this is wild harvested
biology
this is fish emulsion and seaweed we'll
do some more azomite as well now you
could get some products online I'll put
some links in the description that's
easy ready to go these other things
these are things that I made and things
that I'm gonna be talking a lot more
about on my channel so be sure to
subscribe so you can learn how to make
all your own nutrients at home for very
very low cost so now we're going to
dilute with rainwater here and my
parents have a super cool rainwater
setup actually they have all these 250
gallon water tanks so that let's go
ahead and add the water
so we're gonna water in with this first
and soil if it's dry it's it's deceptive
how much water can actually be held in
the soil so we may add this and check
the soil and see that it's still dry
underneath which means we'll come back
in with a hose and water this in further
so this soil is already pretty wet from
our rain so as I stick my finger down in
there I can see it's soaked all the way
down we will come in with a hose though
after we plant our seeds and just give
it a final soaking to make sure it's
fully wet all the way around the root
zone but a great way to check if your
plant has enough moisture is just to dig
back the soil about an inch now when
you're initially watering you want to do
a deep watering I'm a big fan of doing
deep watering less often and that's
gonna more mimic what rainfall is gonna
be like ok so now let's get into seeds
first we're gonna do direct seeding
right into the bed some crops that you
can direct seed are things like root
vegetables beets radish carrots beans
bush beans you can of course direct seed
things like lettuce and spinach as well
some things are better to do in cell
trays just because it's a little bit
easier you can keep them protected make
sure that they sprout and then you put
them into the ground when they're big
enough so I'll show you guys how to do
cell trays right after this so for the
direct seeding here we're just gonna do
beets radish and carrots all these seeds
are from true leaf market they're a
great seed company that I'd highly
recommend and I'll put the link in the
description but we're gonna do a the
rainbow blend of carrots Chioggia beets
which are really beautiful when you cut
them out of a candy cane striped pattern
and then French breakfast radishes which
are really juicy mild not very spicy
radish so for this we just need to make
some lines places little furrows where
we can put the seeds so I just like to
take a big stick and just pull it all
the way across now if you've seen my
other videos and my farm you know I use
a direct cedar like the earth way cedar
but you can't really do
that in a raised bed like this so you
can see these horizontally you can also
see them parallel with your bed here
it's just going to depend you can do it
either way and be successful we have our
lines running vertically here so we're
gonna do them in line with our
irrigation lines if you want to have
more variety or try to stack more types
of plants in here then doing it the
horizontal way is kind of nice because
you could fit more rows in here so it
just comes down to personal preference
and we're gonna go vertically to give my
parents a lot more vegetables of only
three types I just like to use a stick
or something like that just because it
makes it a little bit less effort we're
trying to plant these seeds about a half
an inch down the larger a seed is the
deeper it typically needs to go but most
of your veggies will do fine at half an
inch carrots do better at about a
quarter inch that the highest planted
seeds beets you can do about 1/2 to 3/4
inch something like a bean or corn seed
that's huge can go down about an inch
beans can be 3/4 inch so just to give
you guys some examples of how to plant
these so I'm going to clean we're just
gonna clean these lines up a little bit
we're do two rows of carrots one row of
radish one row of beets so this row I'm
gonna make sure that I get it flat and
not too deep for the carrots and if you
go a little bit too deep when you cover
the seeds at the end you could just
lightly cover them and if you so that if
you made your holes a little bit too
deep for the seeds it's just a way of
getting around that whereas the ones my
mom did their radishes and beets so if
they're a little bit deeper that'll be
great
and just you want to be sure at the end
when we cover them that they're only
about a half an inch in depth so now as
far as the seeding density how many
seeds you're gonna drop in here you just
can just do it by hand and I'm doing way
too many that's an example over seeding
that's that's too much
when these sprout up we're gonna have to
thin them down a little bit if you leave
it this thick
the carrot won't be able to grow into a
really big root so let me try that again
so here's the example of a good seating
density for the carrot seed that's gonna
come out really nice and produce nice
big carrots that is way too many seeds
that's gonna require you to come back
and thin them out if you want to have
nice big carrots so just be careful as
you're seeding to not do too many it
might even be a good idea especially if
you're starting out to take a picture of
what how many seeds this looked like so
that when they sprout up you can learn
from the experience so that next time
you don't do as many or maybe you do
more because a lot of this is going to
come by trial and error for you
all of these sprout I'll be able to feed
the entire neighborhood yeah so here's
an example of some really good beats
eating density and don't worry if some
of them sprout close to each other one
will get bigger than the other you can
harvest that one first and let the other
one grow larger and that's what I did on
my farm it's just a great way to get
more harvest in the same amount of area
these are the radish seeds and that's a
nice looking density radish you can
oversee it a bit more and still have
great radishes so this looks great
so on the carrots when we can we cover
them we're just gonna really lightly
cover them very that's a little bit too
much they only need about a quarter inch
of covering they barely anything and
they'll be fine we made these furrows a
bit too big that's okay because you can
kind of correct that mistake for
whatever your seeds you have as you
cover them
lot more leeway so for that we can just
grab the furrow and close it like this
we want these to be covered half an inch
and then one thing you can do is come
back and then Pat it down and that's
going to give the perfect seed to soil
contact so once we add water it's going
to help use germinate perfectly okay so
that's it and now all we need to do is
just water these down with a hose we can
use our irrigation lines and those will
help to keep it wet
but for germinating seeds it's really
important that once they're wet you keep
them wet and especially for carrots if
you get the carrots wet they start
germinating and then they dry out they
will die so if you're having a problem
getting your carrots to germinate
keeping them wet and maybe the issue
that you're facing some people will tell
you that if you get water on the leaves
it'll actually refract the light and it
can burn your leaves but that is not
true you can get plant leaves wet and
they're completely fine I would
recommend though don't water leaves of
your plants in the evening because that
moisture is gonna sit on the plants all
night long so things for like cucumbers
and tomatoes that can cause fungal
issues developing in your plant so and
even during the day I don't water the
leaves of my cucumbers or tomatoes
unless I'm full you're feeding which
means feeding the plants nutrition
through the leaves and in that case you
can do that in the evening or early
morning because you want the water to
sit on those leaves inoculating biology
and and nutrients into those leaves so
now we just want to make sure and check
to see how wet dry wet or dry this is
and by checking it needs more water so
we want to make sure that it's for sure
an inch down of wet and like I said soil
will take a lot of water so you may need
to do this to three or even four times
depending on how dry your soil is to be
but it's how big the distance is between
that summer squash to the tomato and the
pepper summer squashes get gigantic so
you'd really need a three by three foot
area for them or as they continue to
vine and get longer you can put them on
the side of your bed once they get big
enough you can drape them over the edge
of the garden bed and look continue to
grow out on the ground surrounding the
bed and they're getting the nutrients
from this good soil where their roots
are down here and that's another great
way that you can grow more and less
space you can do this with a winter
squash like a pumpkin or a butternut
squash as well nice so now that's super
wet in there that'll be good enough to
germinate and then we'll just come every
day give it a little bit more water
until we see the plants germinate and
pop out of the ground and we're gonna
continue to make sure that they're very
wet for that first week until the plants
get taller and they show their first
true leaves so the first two leaves that
come out of most plants are their
cotyledon stage leaves those are the
first ones that allow them to get
sunlight and then put out the next true
leaves which are the leaves that the
plant will put out for the rest of its
life so once the plants are about two
three weeks old out of the ground
they're gonna develop a root system and
that root systems gonna go out and seek
water at that point you don't want to
over water and water them every single
day that may be required in the heat of
summer if you have 90 or 100 degree
temperatures you probably are going to
need to water every day but if it's a
cloudy day or temperatures in the 80s
you're gonna want to wait
once plants get really established like
a huge tomato plant even if it is a
hundred degrees you don't need a water
every day because the roots are gonna go
out and find that water for the plant so
it's actually better to let the plant
seek out that water and you're helping
to train the roots to do that by not
giving it water every single day if you
give it water every day you know it's
gonna be comfortable it's not gonna want
to seek out and create a bigger root
system because they're gonna think hey
I've got everything I need right here in
the top but you want them to really seek
out
and expand the root system so watering
deeply less often once the plant is in
its adult stage is a way to make that
happen so that's how I recommend
watering once the plant is full-grown so
one final note on watering today it was
about 70 degrees and cloudy all day long
and the beds are already really wet they
don't need any more water so I would not
want to water today keep in mind the
temperature and the Sun and the water
that your beds are currently at before
you decide to water more and if I check
any of the transplants here also super
wet so if you check and there's already
plenty of water you can actually do more
damage by adding more water and keeping
everything too wet so keep that in mind
when you're thinking about if you need
to water so another fantastic way to
garden is to use a big container like
this so I'm just gonna show you how I
would set a large pot up for planting
strawberries but you could put anything
in here you could put a bunch of herbs
you could put lettuce kale and chard
whatever you'd like
you can get one of these just from any
of your hardware stores drill some holes
on the bottom for drainage and then we
just need to add soil which we're gonna
use the Kellogg's potting mix again and
then we're gonna add in some of our own
fertilizer azomite and then that
nutrient water that I created as well
okay now we want to make sure we leave
enough room for our tomato our
strawberry in here so Knicks we're gonna
add our fertilizer our azomite I just
mix that into the top like six inches
you don't need to mix it throughout the
soil all the way to the bottom the roots
aren't even together gonna go down there
at least for a long time and when you
water that's gonna help to incorporate
it down into those lower areas so we're
just gonna mix the top here because this
is an enclosed pot mixing this up is a
good thing to do and then after this I
would just keep adding nutrients to the
top top what's called top dressing you
don't need to mix nutrients in anymore
after this okay and now we're ready for
our strawberry so let's pull the soil to
the side here doesn't need much pulling
away the roots aren't very established
yet for the lure okay
and then we just want to put it in the
center of the pot
all right and then maybe we'll add a
little more soil to this side here make
sure everything is covered nice and low
push it down a little and that's it now
we're just gonna water this in also this
is a way that I'm keeping all my berries
together I've got blackberries I have
goji berries and barrels like this that
are surrounding the same area so now
we'll throw in our nutrient water
because this is already a fairly big
plant we'll water this every couple days
and once you know a week or two from now
the roots are really start to branch out
and we can water it less and less you
know every three to five days probably
until it gets really hot here in the
summer where it's gonna require more
water and again you can just pull back a
little bit of soil see if it's dry if it
is dry about an inch or two down then
give the plant more water and we'll also
water it a little bit more right now to
make sure the entire root zone is
completely wet okay so the final major
gardening skill that you need to know to
be a successful gardener is how to start
your own seeds so you can get cell trays
these are never sink cell trays I'll put
a link to the video if you want to find
more about cell trays and the different
types but if you're just getting started
I recommend just your standard fifty to
a hundred cell tray and I'll put a link
below for you guys
buuut chef farmer makes really high
quality ones that'll last forever so
they have these individual holes where
you're gonna put the soil and then plant
your seeds we're just gonna use the
Kellogg's raised gardening bed mix
because it has perlite it has good
nutrition everything ready to go and
it's $10 a bag so if you have that in
your local area that's a really great
one or try to find another propagation
mix that you could use or I've got a
video about how you can make your own
propagation mix if you have all the
different raw ingredients so we're just
gonna put our soil in if you're
wondering what these little white rocks
are that's called perlite
perlite allows for airflow and water
flow so that there's good drainage
some people will mix in a fertilizer or
worm castings into their propagation mix
and that's a great thing that you can do
to get really good nutrition for your
plants from the beginning this this
seedling mix will work really good
though and it already has worm castings
and a fertilizer in there so now I'm
just gonna kind of let it drop and see
if there's any areas I can give a little
bit more soil to and you can just run
your hand across the top and that'll
help to make it flat and easy for you
now the next step is to soak these get
them completely soaked all the way
through to the bottom of the cell just
like when we watered in our seeds it's
the same concept you've got to keep your
seeds wet the entire time to germinate
and investing in a nice water wand is a
great idea this thing is not the best
okay so now I can just dig down a little
and check yeah we're completely soaked
so the next step is we want to make
little half-inch holes for our seeds so
I like to use my finger and I just poke
it down a little bit and we're gonna
come at the end once we plant our seeds
and put soil over the top so just keep
that in mind as you're poking your holes
so this is set up for most seeds now
half-inch so here's the way I like to
approach planting and trying to decide
how many cells I want to dedicate to
each type of plant I either like to
separate them out by by row here so
there's 12 here so I could have 12
different types and get six of each type
or I could do it vertically maybe I want
a lot more of each plant so I get twelve
rows of six different types of plants we
have nine different types of plants here
so I'm going to go for the twelve row
spacing here now the other thing to keep
in mind is how much of each plant you
want
so something like a Swiss chard or a
kale you know for a family of four if
you have about five kale plants that's
gonna be more than enough kale that you
guys will be able to eat and that's the
same with your basil you know five to
ten plants max is what is the most that
you're gonna need oh the bunching onions
though you'll need a lot of those so I
might dedicate two rows to the bunching
onions so I did forget one type of seeds
and this is going to be a lettuce blend
so we'll do two rows of that as well but
lettuce is really great because you can
get a continual harvest and just harvest
around the outside of the plant rather
than harvesting the whole head that's a
great way to do it for home gardeners so
we're doing the seeds I like to pour it
into one on my hand and then grab with
my other hand and my two fingers and
then just rub my fingers slowly back and
forth and drop a couple of seeds in for
lettuce and any of these seeds you want
to put you know about two to three seeds
per cell so that you can guarantee
germination and the beauty of starting
them in a cell trait is that they're
very easy to comeback and thin to one
plant so you have a perfect large
transplant ready to go out into your
garden so next we'll do the bunching
onion and a bunching onion is unique
because you don't need to thin them you
can plant three four five all together
so when they sprout up I'll just plant
whatever's there I'm not actually gonna
thin them but the rest of these like
spinach cilantro Swiss chard kale
totsoni all that we're gonna go down to
a one plant now Swiss chard this type of
seed is called a germ seed so inside of
these there's actually multiple seeds so
you really only need to do one if you're
real worried about it you could do two
if you accidentally drop two don't worry
about that tot soy is a type of it's
called Asian spinach and for tots soy
these seeds look identical to kale and
broccoli seeds so if you're not familiar
what these plants look like it's a good
idea to either label your seeds or space
them out accordingly so rather than
putting my kale right next to the
topsoil I'll put it way over here on
this other side that way without
labeling I can know that they're
different types of plants and it'll be
easier to tell the difference for me
next we've got some herbs so this is
dill seed and this is dill that I saved
from plants that I grew from I don't
know three years ago probably now so a
little bit older seed I'll put a couple
more seeds in there just because the
germination rate will go down a bit
cilantro do 2 to 3 of these in there OOP
if you drop too many don't worry about
it you can always thin them out spinach
seed and this is some Jenna Vasey
basil this is my favorite type of basil
I just the fragrance and the flavor is
just the best it's an Italian heirloom
basil and then the final we're gonna do
some sunflower seeds these are also
seeds that I saved like I said earlier
the sunflower seeds I'm just gonna push
them in deeper with my fingers here to
make sure they have enough depth and now
all of this is ready to receive soil
over the top then you just rub over the
top to get it nice and even spread it
out just like that and now the final
step is just gonna be to water this and
then every single day I'll come out and
water these in the summertime you'll
need the water probably twice a day
maybe even three times depending on the
spot you can't even put this in partial
shade in the beginning so that the soil
doesn't dry out as quickly so I'm gonna
go put this probably under the
pomegranate trees and then just water
that every day until I see germination
so here we are about seven days later we
can see the chard the the kale and the
top soy are starting to sprout now and
even some of the lettuce seedlings here
so things are off to a real good start
and then the next week the rest of them
will start sprouting and I just wanted
to mention a couple things about where I
place my seeds I actually put them over
here on this black plastic it all my
farming stuff was covered up and the
black plastic attracted a lot of heat
and I kind of use that as a mock heat
mat so temperatures were in the high 60s
low 70s I just wanted to try and heat up
the seedlings a little bit more to help
the germination process that's another
thing that you can do with seedlings is
you can get what's called a heat mat and
put the heat mat underneath so that if
you have lower temperatures or if you're
starting your seeds out in a much colder
climate the heat mat is gonna really
help you get a better germination rate
and now we're just gonna I'm just going
to keep watering these once a day I did
skip one day of watering when it was
just cloudy all day because I noticed
they were plenty wet and these will grow
for about two three weeks once the
seedlings get you know about yay tall
and they have their true leaves they
will be ready to be planted another
thing you can do to test to see if
they're ready is you can if your cell
trait has some deep enough holes you can
kind of poke them from underneath or you
can squeeze the side and grab from the
base of the plant and pull the plant up
and out and you'll see how much roots
that they have it should have a good
amount of roots developed before you
plant them and if the plant is tall
enough and has good size tree leaves
then then that'll be the case today's
fifth installment of this series is
gonna be about irrigation and I'm going
to show you two different ways to set up
simple gardening irrigation that's going
to be cheap and very efficient on your
watering bill all of my drip irrigation
I buy from drip depot.com they're just a
fantastic company work with great prices
the quality's excellent I've been using
them for the last three and a half years
and I have zero complaints about them or
their products if you want to buy any
drip parts or tools I highly recommend
them and I have a link down in the
description that if you click through
that and buy through them it's an
affiliate link that gives me a small
kickback so that's just a great way that
you can support the channel
getting something that you need and at
no cost to you so I really appreciate
you guys using the link and I know that
you're gonna be super happy with their
service as well and if you missed any of
the other five parts of the gardening
series or any of the live streams that
happened later in the day where I answer
all of your questions for one hour I put
all the links down in the description so
you can check those out and I have a lot
of other irrigation videos that I've
made over the last few years that should
really help you if you want to build a
more complex irrigation system a larger
one or even for a smaller system like
using grow bags and things like that and
I'll put all those videos in the
description as well so let's get started
and first I'm just gonna introduce you
guys to a couple different types of
irrigation systems and some different
terms that you'll need to know moving
forward so we're going to talk about
three different types of lines polylines
emitter or spaghetti line and drip tape
each one of these has their uses
advantages and disadvantages and I'll
speak about each one so the first one
let's talk about is your main line your
poly line so this and all these parts
are made from a long lasting UV
resistant plastic this is half-inch you
can also buy three quarter inch or one
inch main line for a small garden you'll
really only need a half-inch
for a larger garden let's say 500 square
feet or more worth of lines then I
recommend a 3/4 inch main line and on
drip depot.com they have a irrigation
calculator where you can put in the
lengths of lines a gallon per hour of
the lines your flow rate pressure all of
those different things and then it'll
calculate how much line that you can do
on the amount of pressure that you have
so I'll put those tools and the links in
the description so this is the tubing
that's going to deliver your water from
your valve or your hose faucet to your
beds then from here we deliver the water
to the beds through either emitter line
or drip tape so here's an example of
emitter line or spaghetti line and for
intensive gardening I recommend every
six-inch emitters so where this little
bump is this is where it releases the
water and they come out at different
different flow rates
I like the higher rates so around four
point four six gallons per hour so then
every six inch you have one so that when
you do a real intensively planted garden
it's gonna give plenty of water to your
plants and your soil and what's nice
about these is that they're really small
so they're easy to maneuver and get
around your plants take in and out and
they don't get in the way when your
seeds are germinating one disadvantage
to these though is that they get clogged
fairly easily especially if you have
hard water and I'll show you guys in
this one irrigation bed that we're gonna
fix today at my parents place these
spaghetti lines are all like most of
them are clogged and that's why we're
going to replace them and I'll we're
gonna replace them with my special drip
tape system that I use at my market
garden and I'm gonna adapt it to a
raised bed garden so that you guys can
see that and this is I think the best
way to set up irrigation in terms of
cost reliability and just even spread of
water overall but if you want something
that's just ready to go not complicated
at all
I like these spaghetti lines and I'm
going to show you the spaghetti line
setup and this more complex but better
drip tape setup so now we have drip tape
and drip tape is just like the emitter
line but as you can see it looks like
tape and it lays flat it is a bit wider
so it can get in the way of things a
little bit but in general it's really
not bad at all and like I said I use
this in a super productive market garden
and all farms use this stuff if they're
not using overhead irrigation so just
like the emitter line every six inches
there's a spot where the water will come
out these are way less prone to clogging
and I really don't have problems with
these clogging ever
because of the way that these work
because these when you fill it up with
water this will expand into a tube so
it's much more difficult even for hard
water to clog these but hard water can
eventually clog these up but it's very
cheap to replace these and I like to use
the thickest 15 mil plastic because
those can handle a 15 psi pressure
regulator and the higher pressure allows
you know more flow rate more water
coming out more quickly so you don't to
leave the irrigation timer on the valves
on is long and prevents clogging more so
let me show you the emitter line setup
and then we're gonna go and then we're
gonna modify my parents existing
spaghetti line or emitter line set up
and show you how I would do that so at
my parents house they have a more
complex irrigation system where it's
running off of this timer and this runs
to some electronic valves that are
inside of this box which I'm not going
to show you guys that the best way for a
home garden I think is to run everything
off of a faucet but these valves run out
and over here I tapped into the PVC that
runs underneath the deck here and then I
attached the half-inch line right here
to that so that's where I'm getting when
I turn that timer on the water's flowing
to this half-inch so for your home setup
just imagine this is going to a hose
faucet this half-inch lines running here
now I have a quarter-inch line with no
holes in it running to a on/off valve I
like to use the on/off valves instead of
the transfer barb a transfer barb is
what connects the quarter inch to
quarter inch so that's what I'm using
here I'll pull it so you can see it and
with this you can control pressure or
completely turn off one of these lines
so it gives you a lot of control and I
really like that with the emitter lines
will just be replacing these with a drip
tape setup so that's one of the beds and
then you can see there's a tee that
comes off another tee
and an on/off valve and I like to have
valves in between each section or plot
so that if I want to I can turn one of
these off in case maybe the other beds
it's too wet but this bed needs water
that way I can run the single valve from
the timer on and then have control over
which beds are getting water so this one
runs all the way here you can run the
polyline aboveground which is great or
you can just throw you know an inch or
two of dirt if you want to keep it
protected from the Sun but it lasts a
long time in the sunlight and then it's
the same setup over here that's an
example of the transfer barb and you
punch in to the half-inch line with a
couple different tools so these lines
are working perfectly they're not
clogged at all so that's why we're gonna
be leaving these alone now in these you
might be able to see that we're getting
water at the beginning of the lines here
but then at the ends it's completely dry
and there's nothing coming out we tried
poking them with a knife to unclog them
but they're just completely clogged so
we just need to get rid of these and
replace them so now let's talk about
your timers I'm a big fan of the orbit
timers I've had great success with them
they've worked for years off of the
original batteries had never failed on
me the valves never broke and I've used
you know five different ones over the
last three years for my different valves
and I've been very happy with them they
could have a little bit more custom
control but for a home-based garden
they're just perfect so what's great
about these is they will attach to a
hose faucet so first you're gonna put
your particle filter on and you'll put
your timer and if you want you can get a
like a boogie brew filter this filters
out chlorine and heavy metals and just
makes your water a lot better and it'll
you know make the salt it'll help the
soil biology thrive a bit better I
always use these at my farm it's just a
very simple filter that's going to just
make the water a bit cleaner for you
plants in your soil so you can put that
on next and then your timer on a faucet
like this it's a bit harder to have this
set up because it's so long so next
would go your timer then your pressure
regulator on the valve this is an extra
manual valve or you can hook up a hose
to this and then you could run your half
inch polyline from here and they have a
compression fitting that you shove on to
the line and that just screws on to the
regulator here or like I said if you
want to maintain pressure all the way to
the bed then just and you'll just adapt
the half-inch a compression to the three
quarter inch hose threaded fitting put
that on here run it to your bed and then
you'll put the pressure regulator on the
half inch going into your bed and
there's something that you should know
there's something called hose threaded
fittings and there's pipe threaded
fittings pipe threaded is for like a PVC
pipe hose thread is for just like it
sounds for it for a normal hose and if
you buy the wrong one it will not thread
correctly the hose threaded fitting is a
bit wider spaced the pipe thread it is a
bit skinnier threaded so all the faucets
coming out of your house
that's called a hose thread now with
this faucet is attached to of going into
this wall this would be a pipe thread so
I just keep that in mind when you're
looking at your fittings stuff for
irrigation though it's pretty
universally hose threaded but you can
buy pipe threaded stuff for your
irrigation so just keep that in mind but
all of this orbit stuff we is all hose
threaded pressure regulators they can
come in pipe or hose threaded but
because we're using my parents more
advanced like landscaping valve setup
we're running it off of that so we're
just going to imagine that be half-inch
over there that we're about to go
work on is coming from a timer set up
more like this or you may have a
landscape irrigation setup like my
parents have and for that you're just
going to need to tap into the PVC pipe
adapt that to half-inch and for that
your you are definitely going to need a
pressure regulator because those
landscaping lines are much higher
pressure so you'll just buy the pressure
regulator that you'll need whether
you're using the emitter line which is
25 psi some and you'll just check your
line some of them can go up to 40 psi I
believe so it'll say that on the
packaging for the line that you buy 15
psi or 10 psi depending on which type of
drip tape that you buy and the links
down in the description I'll all put
some notes there to help you guys when
purchasing and of course you can call
drip DeBell and they can help consult
you on what you should buy as well
they're really helpful on the phone and
I have many other videos explaining some
of this stuff and more depth if this
wasn't enough for you because irrigation
is a bit confusing especially when do
you dealing with all the fittings the
pressures and all of that especially
when you're hearing this stuff at first
it kind of gets a bit jumbled in your
mind so don't worry about that I'll try
to make it a little bit easier for you
and the instructions below so what we're
gonna do is put a tee right here 1/2
inch up and then into the bed and create
our new drip tape emitter system so I
want you guys to think about this this
half-inch is is running from the valve
now coming from the PVC into this
half-inch that's where we could run this
15 psi pressure regulator and then boom
into this half-inch line now I don't
have the other piece that I need for
this regulator but that's okay because
I'm gonna regulate the pressure with the
valve that we're gonna attach here now
for you running off of a hose faucet
valve you can put the psi regulator you
know off of the timer and then adapt it
and 1/2 inch this is a compression
fitting the 1/2 inch goes inside of
there and it would bring it all the way
here to the beginning of your garden bed
so what I want to do is raise this up
and put the 1/2 inch right at the edge
of my garden bed here so for the tea
we're gonna bring it in and in between
here the 1/2 inch will go and it'll stop
here on each side so I'm just gonna mock
it up and then cut the line and now
we'll put it on and see once I put it on
that side see how much room we have on
there and you could even put it on one
side first and then cut this side to
length that'd be a really safe way to do
it so now we're ready to get the 1/2
inch up and into the bed and 1/2 inch is
super cheap you can get 500 feet of this
stuff for like 50 bucks
so now we'll put this in it's just like
a bunch of Lego pieces what we're gonna
do now we're gonna adapt my on and off
valve system that I used in my market
garden for a raised bed system so we're
gonna take this apart a little bit and
I'll put a link for the video of how to
actually make these if you want to do
in-ground beds but I'm gonna show you a
better way to adapt these for a garden
bed so what I want to have happen is
have this 1/2 inch run completely flush
with the backboard here so I know this
1/2 inch is gonna go inside about this
much and I want it to be pretty flush so
I'm gonna cut it right in there
and mock it up one more time to check it
yeah that'll be really good and now
we're gonna run a half inch piece all
the way across to the other end and cap
it off I'm gonna leave this half inch
open because we want to run water
through this line to clean out anything
that's in here whether that's spiders or
insects or dirt that got clogged in here
so we're gonna blow it out now we're
going to come back and pop some holes
into the line and then we can attach our
drip tape adapter pieces and there's two
different types that I'll show you to
help you make a decision on what you
would like and there's one more piece
that I'm gonna add to this which is this
valve and that way we can turn our bed
on and off if we would like to and this
is the really cool kind that you can
twist on and off so it's not like a
normal compression because you can take
them off and then reuse it so that's why
I really like this this type well for
the valve I could put it in a couple
places I could put it here I could put
it down here and I will just kind of
nail this into place it's got a nice
Bend here it's not getting a kink in it
at all and I could have made this a
little bit better but I'm kind of in a
rush to finish this so I can get to the
live stream so I think I'll just be
happy with this
we'll just attach this to the board and
then we'll run the valve right here so
we just need to cut in and this is
what's so nice about this kind of
half-inch of adapter piece you can shove
the half-inch on there you twist this
and now it makes a perfect watertight
connection but I can always take this
off and reuse it and you're probably
seeing a bunch of dirt on here and
that's why we really need to blow the
line out before we attach anything else
because if we get any dirt in the drip
tape there's a high chance that it could
clog so if we take the precaution now
and blow everything out at each step
you're way less likely to have any
issues with clogging later on awesome
that looks great and we just got a
little creative there and just made it
work I could do this a lot cleaner but
this is going to work great so let's
move on to the next step punch our holes
and then we'll attach our drip tape
almost done so here are the tools that
you use to punch into a half-inch line
this is your most basic and cheap one
where you shove it in and make the hole
this is my personal favorite especially
if you have to do a lot of lines because
you can just put the half-inch in
between here you squeeze and it makes a
perfect hole this is one that was given
to me but it's kind of nice because it
has a knife so that you can cut the pipe
and then on this end it has a punch so
you just press it down and that punches
the line and makes a hole so that you
can put in your transfer barb and then
of course I always keep my Felco pruners
with me I use these for everything
around the garden I highly recommend
this brand of pruner I've had these for
eight years and I can cut irrigation
with them I can prune trees with them I
can thin out seedlings whatever I need
to do I use these pruners
so we just blew out our main line here
nice and clean now we're ready to poke
our holes we always want to make sure
that our drip lines are laid out
equidistant so that we get a perfectly
even water spread so I've put out this
tape measure here to help us do that I'm
gonna be poking a hole at 8 inches this
is a four foot box so if I started
eighth night and I do want every 12
inches
it gives me basically a perfect layout
for this box and I'm gonna use my little
Rain Bird poker here we want to double
check your poking from the correct side
and when you're poking your holes you
want to make sure that it'll be on the
flat side of the tubing here so either
perfectly parallel with the ground or
like slightly up it's better than it
being down because this needs to poke in
right here so if it was down and be kind
of a bad angle so you want to make it
even or slightly up now we're gonna put
in our our transfer barbs which will
transfer from 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch into
drip tape connection and I'll put links
in the description for these different
pieces so it's easier for you to find
now I've got some that have valves on
them I only had three of them left so
one of them will be one that does not
have a valve this is how I ran all of
mine at the farm and I ran you know just
using one main valve but for my parents
a little garden right here I'll give
them a little bit more control so that
they can turn each individual line on
and off except for this one now all you
got to do is just push this end inside
of the hose and when it's completely in
Lamesa it make a nice popping sound just
like that and as you're doing all this
work just be extra careful to keep dirt
out of the line but we are gonna blow
these lines out one last time before we
connect everything so we'll get them
perfectly clean so all four are in now
we just need to cut our drip tape to
length and we need to make another
header piece that's going to match this
one so for making the header piece I am
just gonna line it right up here and I
want to make sure that I have enough
length so that I can fold these over in
order to
tie them off and if you check out my
video on how to like make these in mass
for more of a Market Garden larger size
you'll notice I have a whole process of
how to do this so it's really efficient
and doesn't take as long and then as I
go just make sure that these holes stay
lined up and then I'm just gonna with
with a hose I'm just gonna blow this out
really quick and then now we can tie
this guy off and I'll fold it back the
opposite direction so I can have some
more room okay now I'm going to throw
this at the other end and put some
irrigation tees to hold it in place and
then we can measure out our drip tape
and cut it to length now on the drip
tape itself you just want to you know
give enough link so that I could fit on
here if it's too close to your would if
your box or something take that into
consideration if maybe you want to have
a little bit more length away for the
very first dripper
so before I add anything my drip tape I
want to blow this out real quick
and now attach
okay give it a little tug to make sure
it's nice and stuck on there
and then you want to make sure when you
screw it on to completely unscrew before
you screw it forward to make sure it's
very tight because these can blow off if
the pressure is too high so now I'm just
going to trim these up and get them as
tight as possible and as drip tape gets
older and expands and contracts it will
stretch a little bit so you'll have to
come back and trim them up occasionally
and you'll notice that the lines will
get like kind of loose looking but once
you clip them a couple times they get
really good and then before I screw any
of these on I need to blow the tubes out
[Applause]
so I'm just matching it up I'm pulling
it past I know that the tubing will go
right basically to the edge of the green
if these are completely unscrewed you
also want to make sure that there's not
a emitter in the way and then I just cut
[Applause]
slide it up because I don't have the
right adapter for my pressure regulator
I'm just gonna run this with this valve
not open all the way and that will
reduce the pressure enough so that my
tape is fully pressurized as you can see
but it's not blowing them off the
adapters here so this will be really
great and it's gonna be a great system
for my parents so this is the adapted
version from my market garden and the
reason to have the header at the other
end is that it keeps all the lines
really straight and it's flow through
which means if there's a clog let's say
in that line and the water can't it goes
to here and then it gets clogged the
water can flow around to that side come
back through and still get to the other
emitters so even if there is a clog it
solves that issue alright so that was a
bit more of a complicated episode today
but I really hope this helped give you
some of the nitty-gritty details
surrounding drip irrigation and I know
it's a lot to take in but keep studying
about it and once you figure it out it's
really just like putting LEGO pieces
together and if you want just the
easiest way to do it then I guess I
would suggest 1/2 inch poly main line
with a quarter inch emitter line
and using on and off valves but like I
said I really love this drip tape system
and for all the different reasons that I
mentioned and there's links down the
description to help you guys find the
parts for this so go check those out and
I'll put links to all my videos about
drip irrigation and anything else that
you might need to help you along the way
if you found this video helpful be sure
to share it with a friend that wants to
learn how to garden to help them get
going that would be fantastic and be
sure to like comment I'll be sure to
help you guys if you have any questions
about what we did here I love to help
you get started in your garden
alright everybody that's going to be it
for this episode of nature's always
right I really hope this helps you to
learn some of the beginning gardening
skills that you're going to need thank
you so much mom for joining me had a
great time yeah and we can't wait to do
more gardening out here for the last
couple weeks while I'm living here and
I'll be sure to show you guys updates
check out my Instagram and follow me
there I'll put it updates on this garden
and maybe I'll even get to do one more
video about this before I leave so
alright have a great day on your farms
Lee Gardens and I'll see you guys and
the next nature is always right video
[Music]
